# Home
Welcome to the MalaMaker home page, owner of Maker86 Industries (https\://maker86.com / https\://m86props.com / https\://m86toys.com)
## The Highlights
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[Death Racer](/projects/hobby/death-racer)
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[Toys](/projects/toys)
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[Among Us (Live Action Play)](/projects/games/among-us-live-action-play)
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[NYC Sewer Scene](/projects/scene-builds/nyc-sewer-scene)
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### Halloween Highlights
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[Foam Tattooing (Graphics Transfer)](/projects/halloween/decor/foam-tattooing-graphics-transfer)
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[Wrought Iron Fencing](/projects/halloween/decor/fencing)
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[Fogger Hacks](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks)
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[Tombstones](/projects/halloween/tombstones)
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[Pumpkin Carving](/projects/halloween/pumpkin-carving)
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## Become a Supporter
Every little bit helps to share what I do with the world... plus it is not cheap :fearful: (psst... don't tell me wife). The more support I have the easier it is to provide more content and projects for you to enjoy. The best way to support my work is to buy my product on the [Maker86 Industries web store](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/all?sortOption=descend_by_popularity). Not only are you supporting me but you are supporting the life saving research and treatment provided by St Jude Children's Research Hospital. See '[About Me](#about-me)' for why I support St Jude so heavily.
## The MalaMaker Haunt
Come check out the Haunted Graveyard from October 1 - October 31 ([Google Maps Location](https://goo.gl/maps/nePdPagfZHazHdSn6))
## About Me
### **Hello World...I am Joshua "MalaMaker" Malavolti.**
I am a maker through and through. By day I am a lead Identity and Access Management software developer for a Fortune 100 company. In my personal life I build things in all kinds of different mediums from fabrication, metalworking, machining, woodworking, plastics, resins, silicons, upholstery, sewing, anodizing, electronics, and programming / scripting.
In the world of Making and STEAM, I have never met a challenge that I haven't at least considered. Building things is my life... that is what makes me love doing my day job... I plan and build things just with computers. Since I was a little kid I have been in a garage or shop building stuff.
There was a time in my life in my early teen years that due to health reasons I couldn't physically build things like I was use to and that is when I discovered a way to build things through computer programming and scripting.
Surviving Cancer (Finished Treatment October 2001), I have lived my life meeting challenges head on! Life is too short to not enjoy it, learn from it and give back! I live my personal and hobby that way. In my personal life I give back to St Jude Children's Research Hospital by Raising money and participating in the St Jude Memphis to Peoria Run... yes Memphis, TN to Peoria, IL. As of 2021, I have done the run for 19 years and have raised over $112,800. But... Not only do I run but I also contribute my skills to keep the runners safe.
In my hobby life just like in my personal life no medium is considered out of reach. If there is something I want to do and requires a new skill, I figure out how to learn and make the project happen, and share the knowledge. This has led me to learn a vast array of things over the years. Some of the mediums/tools for making I have used or worked with are...
* Metal Working (Welding, Cutting, Fabrication)
* Aluminum Anodizing
* CNC Machining / Cutting (Woods, Plastics, Fabrics, Metals)
* 3D Printing
* Silicone Casting
* Resin Casting
* Aluminum / Brass Casting
* PCB Design / Soldering / Microprocessor Programming
* Electrical
* Vacuum Forming
* Powder Coating
* Concrete Creations (Countertops and Furniture)
* Woodworking
* Sewing (Fabrics and upholstery)
* 3D Parametric Design
* Animatronics, Special Effects and Mechatronics
* Audio, Lighting and Video
* Coding / Programming / Server DevOps (C, C++, Python, Java, C#, Bash, and many many more)
## Links
Maker86 Industries:
Twitter (@malamaker86): \
YouTube Channel (malamaker86): [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnY9Lne45dkrFTWAH8Tr8FA](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnY9Lne45dkrFTWAH8Tr8FA/videos)\
\
Cults3D: \
Thingiverse: \
Youmagine: \
\
GitHub: \
\
Etsy Store: \
(Etsy Store Coupon Code10% off $50 or more coupon... "10PERCOFFORDER")
### Archive Links
YouTube Channel (lwpsdj): \
YouTube Channel (jjmalavolti):
# Projects
Welcome to the Projects page. Click on the Categories below to navigate to all the various project I have done or been a part of over the years.
# Scene Builds
# NYC Sewer Scene
If you get a vibe of Ninja Turtles... you nailed the inspiration.
This set display was started in December 2024 and is making its way around. It has been to Transworld 2025, MRRF 2025, LBX (LightBurn Experience) 2025, a haunted attraction in Iowa October 2025 and a Christmas attraction in November and December 2025.
### Self Contained Storage and Shipping
### Digital Files
{% file src="/files/gEKZRBrMOdOJNIsB2Dtn" %}
MillMage File (LightBurn's CNC CAM Software). This file can be opened in LightBurn.
{% endfile %}
More will be posted on this display in Fall 2025
# Halloween and Haunt
The MalaMaker Halloween Page. Find out all the various builds, hacks and how-to's that make up the Halloween decorations over the years. (#Halloween)
### Welcome to MalaMaker Halloween Page. One of my favorite holidays and with that I do what I do best... ***overdo everything*****!**
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[Caught on Camera](/projects/halloween/caught-on-camera)
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[Costumes and Costume Props](/projects/halloween/costumes-and-costume-props)
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[Tombstones](/projects/halloween/tombstones)
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[Props and Decor](/projects/halloween/decor)
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[Electronics & Automations](/projects/halloween/electronics-and-automations)
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[Fogger Hacks](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks)
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[Animatronics and Special Effects](/projects/halloween/animatronics-and-special-effects)
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[Pumpkin Carving](/projects/halloween/pumpkin-carving)
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### 2022:
Coming In October 2022!
### 2021:
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### 2020:
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Halloween 2020
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### Then:
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# Caught on Camera
Those rare moments caught on camera
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The spider decided to make an appearance.
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# Costumes and Costume Props
Check out some of the custom costume and costume props we have done over the years.
One of the best parts of Halloween is dressing up! Over the years I have strived to go overboard on costumes for me and my family members. Hope you enjoy!
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[Dumb and Dumber: Mutts Cuts Wagon](/projects/halloween/costumes-and-costume-props/dumb-and-dumber-mutts-cuts-wagon)
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# Dumb and Dumber: Mutts Cuts Wagon
Turning a wagon into the notorious Mutt Cutts Van.
Build Details Coming Soon!
3D Models...
# Ninja Turtle: Custom Shells
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# Tombstones
Everything you need to know about prop Tombstones / Monuments and how to make them the MalaMaker way. (#Halloween #Tombstones)
## How-To Make Tombstones and Monuments
*Whether you are hand making your tombstones or using CNC equipment this will take you through some tips and tricks for making your graveyard look authentic.*
### Tools and Supplies
#### Tools
* Electric Drill (Cord/Cordless)
* 3/4in OR 1in Auger Bit (12" Length) - You can get augers that mount on extensions to save a few $$'s
* Foam Paint Roller
* Foam Brush
* Plastic Putty Knife (Various Sizes)
* Plastic V-Notched Adhesive Spreader
* Sandpaper / Sanding pads
* Files
* Hand saw
* Small Hammer
* Caulk Gun
* Side cutters
* Countersink Drill Bit
* Drill bit (1/16in)
* Spray bottle with water
* Heat gun (temp control recommended but not required)
#### Supplies
* High Density Polystyrene Sheet (1/2in - 2in)
* Loctite® PL® 300 Foamboard Construction Adhesive
* GREAT STUFF Crack Filler (Red Can)
* Toothpicks
* Bamboo Skewers (9in and 12in)
* DAP® Plastic Wood® Natural Latex Wood Filler
* Acrylic Primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer) or Rust-Oleum® Specialty Foam Primer Spray
* Spray Paint - Flat/Matte (Black, White, Gray, Beige, Tan)
* Textured Spray Paint (Gray Stone, White) - Optional
* Acrylic Paint (Black, White, Gray, Brown, Green, Tan)
* Spar Urethane Satin Water Based Exterior Clear coat ([Minwax 630520444](https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/minwax-water-based-helmsman-indooroutdoor-spar-urethane))
* Wood Screws (1-1/4in to 1-1/2in)
* 10in Spike Nail (Qty 3 / Tombstone)
* 3/4in OR 1in Dowel rod - Match the Auger you are using
* Sandpaper / Sanding Sponges
### Planning your Build
With any project it is always best to plan your build before you go head first into the project. I have made tombstones by hand and by machine. No matter the approach you will always have gotchya's when building tombstones.
#### Single Piece or Complex Assembly
Tombstones and Monuments can be as simple or as complex as you choose. Some of my best tombstones are simple 1 piece designs. If you are making by hand one piece tombstones are the way to go and if you look at some of the old tombstones as you pass by graveyards you will see that the one piece tombstone more often than not will be an authentic looking piece to add to your décor.
[Album of Real Tombstones](https://photos.app.goo.gl/iyLQf4tgkuhUGVrx7)
When I was hand building tombstones instead of carving out the lettering in the tombstone I would cut stencils and paint the lettering on the tombstone. This will still give that realistic look to the tombstone.
My Tombstone Builds ([CNC](https://photos.app.goo.gl/9APeuEPCLteEcHe68) / [Hand-Made](https://photos.app.goo.gl/2y1Qi7wm8DfEBWmJ7))
### Building the Tombstone / Monument
When it comes to building your tombstone there are some things you need to know\... Polystyrene (PS) is an interesting medium and first instincts might cause you problems.
* When attaching pieces together use PL300 Adhesive... it is made for Polystyrene. Some adhesives will melt PS so test your adhesives on a test piece and it fully cures to see the reactions it may cause before you use it on your décor.
* Use Toothpicks and Bamboo skewers to hold pieces together. Make sure you countersink the toothpicks and skewers. Use side cutters to snip any excess or to shorten.
* Any holes, snags, or imperfections you find can be filled during the finishing process.
Today I carve most of my tombstones using a CNC router. Typically I will design the tombstone up first in Fusion 360 and Blender before cutting them on the CNC router. I know not everyone has tools like a CNC Router or the time to learn software's like Fusion 360 and Blender so I included some really good videos below on how to hand build tombstones.
#### Transferring Text and Graphics to Foam...
If you are looking for a way to transfer graphics to your foam, check out the [Foam Tattooing (Graphics Transfer)](/projects/halloween/decor/foam-tattooing-graphics-transfer) page. The process used is developed by me and shows really consistent results to give you a guide to carve out lettering, graphics, cracks, etc into your foam.
#### Handmade Tombstone Build Videos...
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Wicked Makers:
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VanOakProps: ;
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### The Base
Holding a tombstone to the ground without it appearing to reside on the surface is tricky.
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#### Adding Dowel Rods to the base of the tombstone/monument
1. Drill Holes (min of 2) in the bottom of the tombstone or monument using a 3/4in or 1in auger bit 6in-12in into the base of the piece.
2. Put PL300 Adhesive in the hole. Do not fill the hole, just enough that it will spread out on the sides and bottom of the hole as you push the dowel rod into the hole.
3. Push the dowel rods into the hole in the foam.
4. Take a handsaw and cut the dowel rod at the base of the tombstone/monument.
5. Let the adhesive set.
#### Cutting a base for the tombstone/monument
I attach my pieces to the ground using 10in metal spikes and even in the windiest of environments I have seen during the month of October I have never lost a tombstone or monument. Typically my bases fit the profile of my tombstone/monument and have tabs with holes in them for the spikes to be driven through.
#### Attaching the base to the dowel rods
1. Using a drill with a countersink drill bit and a small drill bit predrill holes in the base that match up with the middle of the dowel rods.
2. Paint the base the desired final color and let completely dry. (I typically do a black or dark green, something that will blend in the grass)
3. Apply PL300 to the tombstone's bottom that will make contact with the base.
4. Set the base and put screws where you previously pre-drilled.
5. Let the adhesive set.
### Finishing the Look
Now to finish the look and make it look more authentic. For this process it is an art more than a science. You will be sanding, filing, filling... any finishing technique you can think of to give that tombstone the look like it has been sitting outside for centuries. Use my [Album of Real Tombstones](https://photos.app.goo.gl/iyLQf4tgkuhUGVrx7) to get inspiration. I have a habit of stopping in old graveyards when I pass them so more photos will be added in the future.
### Adding Character
One thing with tombstones, they are always outside and with that weathering occurs. Well if you are going for realism this is an important element to master.
Spray Bottle, Water, Heat gun Texturing:
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Spray Bottle, Water, Heat gun Texturing (Start @ 8:20)
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### Painting, Sealing and Accents
When it comes to priming, painting and sealing your décor piece there are some thing you need to consider and know.
#### Priming
* *Do not use spray paint, the 2-in-1 spray paint or spray paint primer directly on the polystyrene*... it will **melt**!
* When Priming your polystyrene use Acrylic primer (roll/brush/air-spray) or Rust-Oleum® Specialty Foam Primer Spray. I typically do the bulk of my priming using either a foam roller/foam brush or a air-sprayer, then I will follow up with the hard spots using the Rust-Oleum® Specialty Foam Primer Spray.
#### Painting
This step is an art and it might take a couple tries but all of my tombstones are painted with flat/matte spray paint. The idea here is to start with a base color and then work the accent colors from there. Depending on the tombstone I might start with a light gray to white or standard gray. Then from there you start spraying the light accent colors to give the tombstone its depth and aged / weathered look. Tombstones lots of time have speckles of color either from imperfections or how it weathered.
#### Accents and Aging Techniques
* Moss Accents
* [Moss (DIY)](/projects/halloween/decor/moss-diy) - From Making to Applying home made moss.
* [Moss (Fear Finish)](/projects/halloween/decor/moss-fear-finish) - Off the shelf product but gives a realistic look of moss for your piece.
*
*
* Rust Accents
* [Rust (Fear Finish)](/projects/halloween/decor/rust-fear-finish) - Off the shelf product that can rust out your props in minutes vs months and years.
* Water Blotching: Using a spray bottle of water you mist water on the tombstone and spray paint a darker color over the tombstone to give it a water blotched aged look. ()
#### Sealing
Sealing the tombstones is key and you need to make sure you seal it with the right clear coat sealer or you will be repainting in years to come. Indoor clear coat will wash off and Oil based outdoor clear coat will look amber-ish on the tombstone.
Water based exterior polyethene is the stuff!!! This will hold up to the outdoors and will be crystal clear over your paint job. Unfortunately I have not been able to find this in anything other than liquid form... Ping me on twitter if you find an aerosol version of water based exterior poly. So you will be left with foam rolling and foam brushing it on... I have a HVLP sprayer which if you have this capability it makes quick work of clear coating.
### Good Luck on your Graveyard Build...
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
## Tombstone Templates
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[Stranger Things: Billy Hargrove](/projects/halloween/tombstones/stranger-things-billy-hargrove)
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[Hocus Pocus: Billy Butcherson Tombstone](/projects/halloween/tombstones/hocus-pocus-billy-butcherson-tombstone)
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[Hocus Pocus: Emily Binx Tombstone](/projects/halloween/tombstones/hocus-pocus-emily-binx-tombstone)
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[Frankenweenie: Sparky Tombstone](/projects/halloween/tombstones/frankenweenie-sparky-tombstone)
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[Mouse Hunt: Catzilla](/projects/halloween/tombstones/mouse-hunt-catzilla)
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# Stranger Things: Billy Hargrove
Season 4 Episode 4... We all remember Max levitating while... I guess if you haven't seen it, no spoilers. This tombstone is the Bully Tombstone but with the blooper rendition too.
I am a huge Stranger Things fan and what better than Billy, I mean William, wait yeah Billy's tombstone. Just to add the icing on the cake with the blooper of the tombstone magically becoming William when Max starts levitating, both name stencils are included.
Check out how to create tombstones in the [Tombstone Page](/projects/halloween/tombstones). This tombstone is designed to be cut into 2" Extruded Polystyrene Foamboard Insulation. The base and top of the tombstone is designed to be 3 layer thick of 2" foam.
When finishing this tombstone to get the rough chipped granite look, use the spray bottle, water, heat gun technique on your foam to get that authentic rough look. We have a link to the technique being used by Wicked Makers on our [tombstone page](https://wiki.malamaker.org/projects/halloween/tombstones#adding-character).
License: [Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)
Difficulty: Low
## Media
Included are files to Print a template of the tombstone.
 
### Printable Templates
Templates: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/billy-hargrove-printable-tombstone-template-tv-series-reference-stranger-things)
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
# Hocus Pocus: Billy Butcherson Tombstone
A Hocus Pocus fan... Handcut or CNC machine the Billy Butcherson (William Butcherson) Tombstone. The tombstone of the Zombie guy with the sewn lips.
Whether you have computerized tools or you want to build it by hand the materials included will help support you building this tombstone. Check out how to create tombstones in the [Tombstone Page](/projects/halloween/tombstones). This tombstone is designed to be cut into 2" Extruded Polystyrene Foamboard Insulation.
License: [Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)
Difficulty: Low-Medium
## Media
Included are files to 3D Print, CNC Cut, and/or Print a template of the tombstone.
### 3D Models
STL: [Cults3D ](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/billy-butcherson-tombstone-hocus-pocus)/ [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4915934)
STEP: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/billy-butcherson-step-tombstone-template-moveie-hocus-pocus-bll-btc-prn-tmb)
### Printable Templates
Templates: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/billy-butcherson-printable-tombstone-template-moveie-hocus-pocus)
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
# Hocus Pocus: Emily Binx Tombstone
A Hocus Pocus fan... Handcut or CNC machine the Emily Binx Tombstone. The tombstone of the girl in the white gown who got her life force sucked out by the 3 witches.
Whether you have computerized tools or you want to build it by hand the materials included will help support you building this tombstone. Check out how to create tombstones in the [Tombstone Page](/projects/halloween/tombstones). This tombstone is designed to be cut into 2" Extruded Polystyrene Foamboard Insulation.
License: [Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)
Difficulty: Medium
## Media
Included are files to 3D Print, CNC Cut, and/or Print a template of the tombstone.
### 3D Models
STL: Cults3D / [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5440519)
STEP: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/emily-binx-3d-step-tombstone-template-movie-reference-hocus-pocus-mly-bnx-prn-tmb)
### Printable Templates
Templates: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/emily-binx-printable-tombstone-template-movie-reference-hocus-pocus)
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
# Frankenweenie: Sparky Tombstone
I'm a HUGE Tim Burton fan so I had to do a tombstone from one of his movies plus it fit perfectly in my pet cemetery.
Whether you have computerized tools or you want to build it by hand the materials included will help support you building this tombstone. Check out how to create tombstones in the [Tombstone Page](/projects/halloween/tombstones). This tombstone is designed to be cut into 1" and 2" Extruded Polystyrene Foamboard Insulation. The front and back sections are 3" thick and the mid section is 2" thick.
License: [Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)
Difficulty: Medium-High
## Media
Included are files to CNC Cut, and/or Print a template of the tombstone.
### 3D Models
3D Step Files: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/sparky-tombstone-3d-step-files-movie-reference-frankenweenie)
### Printable Templates
Templates: [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/sparky-printable-tombstone-template-movie-reference-frankenweenie)
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
# Mouse Hunt: Catzilla
The movie implies that the Cat dies so I made a fitting tombstone with the original name tag and a mash up line from the movie.
I know this was not a super popular movie but it was a fitting tombstone for a pet cemetery. The writing in the name and the surround ragged tag are actually taken from a scene in the movie.
Check out how to create tombstones in the [Tombstone Page](/projects/halloween/tombstones). This tombstone is designed to be cut into 2" Extruded Polystyrene Foamboard Insulation.
License: [Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)](https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/)
Difficulty: Low-Medium
## Media
Included are files to Print a template of the tombstone for hand cutting. Since this is an original design I am not releasing the 3D models at this time.
### Printable Templates
Template (PDF + SVG): [Maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/catzilla-printable-tombstone-template-movie-reference-mouse-hunt)
#### If you use these instructions please post your build on Twitter and share the post with me (@malamaker86).
# The Statues Are Watching
Ever been to the Haunted Mansion Ride at Disney Theme Parks... this is one of the special effects used.
Build Details Coming Soon! Here is a sneak peak...
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# Props and Decor
From Tombstones to lighting and all the fine details in between to make the experience as real as possible.
# Foam Tattooing (Graphics Transfer)
Every gotten a tattoo. Well if you have this process might be a bit familiar. Transfer your graphics printed on a printer to foam with an old fax machine.
This is a process that I started developing in June 2022 where I needed to print a classrooms worth of Tombstone graphics and transfer them to foam for carving. The process is a near identical process to what tattoo artists sometimes do where they scan the image they plan to tattoo on a thermal copier. The copy produces a ink transfer that when your skin is moisturized it transfers the ink to your skin as a guide for the artist to tattoo. Since extruded polystyrene is pores as well, I figure might as well see if it works. With the right moisture catalyst... it is possible and works very well!
{% embed url="" %}
## Tools and Supplies
{% embed url="" %}
### Tools
* Thermal Copier Printer ([Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBILS6G))
* Stencil Transfer Paper for Tattooing ([Premade Stencils on Maker86 Store](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/categories/foam-tattoos))
* Foam Brush \[1-3 inch width] (2 inch Brush Comes w/ [Maker86 Transfer Catalyst 0.3L](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-transfer-catalyst/v/FM-TATTOO-T-CATALYST-03) bottle)
* Spray Bottle (Comes w/ [Maker86 Transfer Catalyst 0.3L](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-transfer-catalyst/v/FM-TATTOO-T-CATALYST-03) bottle)
### Supplies
* Maker86 Foam Tattoo Transfer Catalyst ([Maker86 Store](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-transfer-catalyst))
## The Potion (Moisture Transfer Catalyst)
For this process to work you will need a moisture catalyst that distributes the right amount of moisture for the transfer to be clean. Too much moisture and you will get a mess of ink and no discernable text or image to guide your carving. The [Maker86 Foam Tattoo Transfer Catalyst](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-transfer-catalyst) is a specially designed moisture solution to get the best transfer results. This is a proprietary solution developed by MalaMaker.
#### Dispensing Container
It is recommended that you use a spray bottle to dispense the mixture with a fine mist nozzle.
## The Process
This has been one of the most rewarding processes to come up with. It is really easy and when testing this with people, I explained how to do it for literally 1 minute and the entire group was able to repeat the process with zero help. I hope this helps in your prop making processes.
{% embed url="" %}
### Printing Your Graphics
Well... Using your standard printer, print the desired graphics you want to carve in the foam. Make sure the graphics are converted to a black and white color palate for the best results when using a thermal copier with transfer paper.
### Creating A Transfer
For this process you will need a Thermal Copier and Transfer Paper. Using the instructions that came with the machine and the graphics you have printed create a copy of your graphics using the transfer paper. This may need a bit of trial and error to get it right. My machines require the mirror setting on and "deepness II".
Maker86 Industries offers a [service](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-custom-stencil-transfer) to get your own artwork made into a transfer without buying a thermal copier of your own. [Found here](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/foam-tattoo-custom-stencil-transfer).
### Pre-Made Transfers
Maker86 Industries does offer some pre-made transfers. One notable pre-made transfer is "The Crack Pack" which is a pack of 8 unique cracks that you can apply to your foam pieces to get a realistic crack stencil.
### Applying the Moisture Catalyst
{% embed url="" %}
1. Shake Maker86 Transfer Catalyst well before use.
2. Spray Maker86 Transfer Catalyst on the surface of the foam in the area where you desire to apply the stencil.
3. Let the solution sit on the surface for 1 minute.
4. With a paper towel wipe off the transfer catalyst.
5. Repeat step 2 and 3 if humidity is below 30%.
6. Spray Maker86 Transfer Catalyst on the surface of the foam in the area where you desire to apply the stencil.
7. Using a dry foam brush, lightly smooth the Transfer Catalyst on the surface of the foam. Be careful to not remove too much catalyst. There should be a sheen of smooth Transfer Catalyst on the surface of the foam. See Tutorial Wiki page for photo examples.
### Laying the Transfer
{% embed url="" %}
1. Lay the stencil, ink side down.
* Avoid dragging the stencil across the surface.
* Avoid ripples in the stencil paper.
2. Press the transfer paper into the moisture transfer catalyst left on the surface of the foam.
3. For any areas of ink on the transfer sheet that is not a deep blue apply a light spray of Transfer Catalyst and lightly brush the solution into the transfer sheet.
4. Leave the stencil applied to the foam for 2 minutes and 30 seconds.
5. Remove Stencil from the foam, See '[Reusability](#reusability)' section for reusing stencils.
6. Let the foam sit to dry.
* Do not wipe the surface until totally dry.
7. **Start carving!!!!**
### Reusability
Even though I do not guarantee reusability of the transfer beyond 1 use, in user testing, the group unprompted just starting passing common pieces around and were able to use them 3-4 times. So do this on your own judgement, testers did prove that this was possible.
{% embed url="" %}
# Let it Grow\... Lights
Those large decor items killing your grass... You might be able to curb and have grass grow under your decor.
Coming Soon!
# Moss (DIY)
Time to Moss it all up... How I add moss to my props.
Looking to add moss to your next prop. This page will show you how I make and apply moss. Its a bit of a messy job but rewarding when the piece is done.
## Making the Moss
When it comes to making moss it is more of an art than a science. The moss I make is primarily wood shavings and sawdust. That mixture gives a nice texture of large and small pieces to give that mossy look.
Coming Soon!
If you are not into making your own moss or don't have the supplies to make it, check out the [Fear Finish Moss by 916 Productions](/projects/halloween/decor/moss-fear-finish).
## Appling the Moss
Coming Soon!
## Seal the deal
Coming Soon!
# Moss (Fear Finish)
Looking for a moss look and don't want to try and make it yourself? I had the opportunity to see Fear Finish moss up close at Transworld 2022 and all I can say is WOW!
This tutorial will go through how to apply and finish your décor using the Fear Finish Moss product.
{% embed url="" %}
More Details Coming Soon (September 2023)!
# Rust (Fear Finish)
Have some props that you are wanting to have that crusty rusty look. Well add that look and feel to your props with this off the shelf product.
We will take you through the process of applying the fear finish rust to your prop.
{% embed url="" %}
More Details Coming Soon (September 2023)!
# Graveyard Entrance
Coming in 2025!
## Tools and Supplies
### Tools
* [ ] Coming Soon
### Supplies
* [ ] Coming Soon
* [ ] Faux Wrought Iron Hinge ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/gate-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor), [STL Digital Download](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/gate-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor-digital-download))
## The Build
Coming Soon
### Preparing Your Parts
Coming Soon
### Building Your Gate
Coming Soon
## Finish Work
Coming Soon
## Mounting Your Gate
Coming Soon
# Corner / Entrance Pillars
Build a prop pillar to accent corners, provide an entrance gate. This will show you how to build a faux pillar.
{% embed url="" %}
## Tools and Supplies
### Tools
* [ ] Drill / Driver
* [ ] Utility Knife w/ new blade
* [ ] (Optional) Table Saw - Used to cut panel 45 degree angles
### Supplies
* [ ] 4x8 foot by 1 inch Extruded Polystyrene Sheet
* [ ] 2in Extruded Polystyrene (15 inch x 15 inch per pillar)
* [ ] 2x2 Lumber - 8ft (Qty 4)
* [ ] 1x4 Lumber - 8ft (Qty 0-4, See [#cutting-lumber-pieces](#cutting-lumber-pieces "mention"))
* [ ] 2x6 Lumber - 8ft (Only need 10 inches per pillar)
* [ ] Expandable Spray Foam
* [ ] 1-1/4 inch Cabinet Screws (Minimum 32 screws)
* [ ] 2-1/2 inch Cabinet Screws (Qty 4)
## Prepping Your Build
{% embed url="" %}
### Cutting Foam Pieces
#### Side Panels
1. With the 4x8 foot sheet of 1 inch Polystyrene, in the 8 foot direction, measure and mark the desired height of the pillar.
2. Using a straight edge and a utility knife, cut the foam on the measured marks. Make sure to slice as deep as you can.
3. Drag the foam to the end of the table placing the score mark over the edge of the table and snap the foam.
4. In the 4 foot direction of the foam board, measure and mark 12 inch, 24 inch, and 36 inch distances. Each mark will be the edge of the pillar panel.
5. Using a straight edge and a utility knife, cut the foam on the measured marks. Make sure to slice as deep as you can.
6. Drag the foam to the end of the table placing the score mark over the edge of the table and snap the foam.
7. If you have tongue and groove foam board, using the utility knife, slice off the tongue from the edge of the foam.
8. At this point you should have 4 pieces of foam 12 inches wide and however tall of pillar you are building.
9. Using a knife or table saw, cut 45 degree angles on the long side of every panel. The outside of the panel should be 12 inches and the narrow part of the panel should be a bit over 9 inches.
10. Panels are ready for Assembly
#### Pillar Cap Pieces
1. Using the cutoff from the 1 inch foam board, measure a 13 inch by 13 inch square.
2. Using a straight edge and a utility knife, cut the foam on the measured marks. Make sure to slice as deep as you can.
3. Drag the foam to the end of the table placing the score mark over the edge of the table and snap the foam.
4. With a 2 inch thick piece of foam board, measure a 15 inch by 15 inch square.
5. Using a straight edge and a utility knife, cut the foam on the measured marks. Make sure to slice as deep as you can. A serrated knife also works well to cut deep in thicker foam.
6. Drag the foam to the end of the table placing the score mark over the edge of the table and snap the foam.
7. Cap Pieces are ready for Assembly
### Cutting Lumber Pieces
1. (Qty 4) Cut the 2x2 down to the length of the height of the pillar panels.
2. (Qty 1) Cut the 2x6 down to 10 inches in length.
3. (Qty 0-4) Cut the 1x4 down to 2 inches shorter than the length of the pillar panels. You will need one of these for every side you will need to mount things to.
## Assembling The Pillar
{% embed url="" %}
Lets put together everything we have prepared.
### Panels 1-3 Assembly
For reference the narrow side of the foam is the inside surface of the pillar.
1. Using the spray foam as a glue, apply 2 strips of spray foam at the edge of the long edge of the foam.
2. Take two 2 by 2’s and place them on the spray foam at the edge.
3. Flip the foam and 2 by 2’s over, making sure to keep the 2 by 2’s in the same place.
4. Line up the 2 by 2’s edge with the edge of the angle.
5. Secure the foam to the 2 by 2’s with 1 and 1/4 inch screws. Make sure to counter sink the screws in the foam by 1/4 inch. Use three screws in each board.
6. Flip the foam where the boards are on the top again.
7. Taking another piece of foam board.
8. Align the edge of the foam with the foam we attached the boards to.
9. Apply a line of spray foam.
10. Place the panel at a 90 degree to the first piece of foam, matching the 45 degree angles together.
11. Screw in place with 1 and 1/4 inch screws.
12. Repeat for the other side.
### Supports and Attachment Surfaces
1. Using 1 and 1/4 inch screws, attach the 10 inch 2 by 6 between the two side panels at what will be the top of the pillar.
2. Make sure the board is flush with the edge of the foam.
3. This will give a surface to attach things to on the top of the pillar through the foam.
4. To give a stable surface to attach things to the side of the pillars, use the 1 by 4 boards.
5. Applying spray foam as glue place your 1 by 4’s on the desired sides and attach through the foam using 1 and 1/4 inch screws.
6. This build is a corner pillar so I am placing the boards on 2 sides next to each other.
7. Apply the spray foam around the board to add support and hold the boards in place.
### Final Panel Assembly
1. Using the same assembly process as the first panel we built...
1. Apply spray foam for glue
2. Place the two 2 by 2 boards at the edges
3. Flip and screw into place with 1 and 1/4 inch screws
2. With the 3 sided pillar stood on end, attach the pre-assembled side using 1 and 1/4 inch screws
### Pillar Cap Assembly
1. Flip the pillar where the 10 inch board is on the top, apply spray foam.
2. Take the 1 inch thick, 13 by 13 foam square and center on the top of the pillar.
3. Apply spray foam on the top of the 13 by 13 square.
4. Place the 2 inch thick, 15 by 15 foam square on top and center.
5. Drive 2 and 1/2 screws through the 2 layers of foam into the 2 by 2 lumber used to attach the side panels together. Do this for all 4 corners. The screws will be driven about 1 inch below the foam surface.
## Finishing Your Prop
See the '[Finishing Techniques](/projects/halloween/decor/finishing-techniques)' Page
# Wrought Iron Fencing
Take the weight out of wrought iron by building a faux wrought iron fence!
#### Tutorials videos will be added here as they release (4 Part Video Tutorial Series)!
{% embed url="" %}
{% embed url="" %}
## How-To Make Faux Wrought Iron Fence
*This will take you through some tips and tricks for making your graveyard look authentic.*
*We now have a build kit on* [*Maker86 Industries*](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials) *for sale to make the building process easier!*
### Tools and Supplies
#### Tools
* Circular Saw with edge guide OR Table Saw
* Electric Drill (Cord/Cordless)
* 7/8-in Forster Bit
* Countersink Drill Bit
* Screw Bit
* Powered Stapler (Crown Stapler Preferred | Pneumatic or Cordless)
#### Supplies
* (Qty 6 / 8ft of fence) 1/2-in PVC Pipe, 10ft length (SDR 13.5 High Pressure Pipe, Schedule 40, or Schedule 80)
* 3/4-in Plywood (Grade A)
* 4" x 10' PVC Sch 40 DWV Plain End Cellular Core Pipe (Local Hardware Store, [Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-circle-accent-faux-wrought-iron-fence-dcor), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials))
* \#8 Wood Screws (3/4in) (Local Hardware Store, [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials))
* (Qty 16) Faux Wrought Iron Fence Tops ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/xn-fence-topper-faux-wrought-iron-fence-dcor-e2d), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials))
* Epoxy ([Loctite General Purpose Epoxy 5 minute](https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_quickset.html))
* Fence Mounts ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-dcor), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials), [STL Digital Download](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor-stl-digital-download))
* Post Caps ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-cap-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials), [STL Digital Download](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-post-cap-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor-stl-digital-download))
* \#8 Sharp Point Lath Screws (3/4in) (Local Hardware Store, [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials))
* 5/8" Crown Staples
{% embed url="" %}
Section: Tools
{% endembed %}
## The Build
Your look is always key so planning your build is important. Do you want the more basic iron look or are you looking for a long bar short bar look? All these are questions for yourself before you just start building.
### Preparing your Parts
{% embed url="" %}
Section: Cutting To Size
{% endembed %}
Let's cut the materials down to size and drill some holes.
#### 4" PVC Sch 40 DWV Plain End Cellular Core Pipe
Using a miter saw, cut down the PVC pipe into lengths of 21.5mm or 0.85in. When you are cutting these you may want to consider a wood guide on the saw so the pieces do not get jammed behind the fence during the cut.
#### 1/2" PVC Pipe
With each 10 foot length, cut them into 3 pieces. If your PVC pipe has a flare at one end, cut the flare off first and then cut into 3 pieces. Each piece should be 38" to 40" long.
(Optional) Using some scrap PVC cut two templates to use later for marking the plywood for drilling. Cut a 127mm and 138mm PVC pipe. Another option is using a picket master tool. If you are doing a large amount of fencing the picket master tool might be worth the time savings.
#### Wood Strips
First we are going to need to either use stock strips of wood (1 x 2 Lumber) or cut 3/4" plywood into strips and then we are going to use a forester bit to drill the holes that the PVC will eventually slide through.
*Cutting (3/4" Plywood only):* Using the long edge of the plywood, cut 35mm or 1-3/8" strips of wood. Each section of the fence will take three 8 foot strips of wood to make.
*Marking for Drilling:* We need to first mark the plywood for drilling. Using the 127mm measuring template, from the one end of the strip of plywood mark the initial point. Then using the 138mm measuring template, measure and mark each additional center point using the last mark as the starting point. There should be 16 total marks that we will use for drilling. At the opposite end from where you started marking, use the 127mm template to mark a 17th point. This last mark will be where you will trim down the strips to make an even spacing on both ends. Now, with the first 16 marks you made, find the center of the board so we know where to start drilling.
Drilling: Stack the 3 strips of plywood and clamp them down. Make sure to apply clamps where needed to keep the boards aligned through the length of the strips. Using the 7/8" forester bit, drill your center points through the 3 layers of plywood. **Make sure to go straight through the 3 layers, two of the sides have very little room for error.** It is recommended to use a portable drill guide to ensure you drill straight through all 3 layers.
All the materials are prepped for Assembly.
### Build a Fence Panel
{% embed url="" %}
Section: Assembly
{% endembed %}
#### Assembly: Wood Strips and 1/2" PVC
1. Lay out all 3 strips of wood in the same order you drilled the 7/8" holes.
2. Feed the pieces of 1/2" PVC through each hole.
3. Once you have all the PVC threaded through all the holes. Grab a marking tool (pencil/pen/sharpie) and tape measure to measure the distances needed for each piece of plywood.
1. Measure and mark 75mm (3-inches) From the Top of the 1/2" PVC to the top of the first piece of plywood.
2. Predrill the first piece of Plywood into the PVC for each vertical. Counter drill the hole so the tapered head of the screw does not split the plywood.
3. Place a 3/4-inch screw in each predrilled hole.
4. Place a 4-inch PVC circle in each slot and pull the next piece of plywood snug against the 4-inch PVC pieces.
5. Predrill the second piece of Plywood into the PVC for each vertical. Counter drill the hole so the tapered head of the screw does not split the plywood.
6. Place a 3/4-inch screw in each predrilled hole.
7. Measure and mark 75mm (3-inches) From the bottom of the second piece of plywood to the top of the third piece of plywood.
8. Predrill the third piece of Plywood into the PVC for each vertical. Counter drill the hole so the tapered head of the screw does not split the plywood.
9. Place a 3/4-inch screw in each predrilled hole.
#### Assembly: 4" PVC Circles
1. Place a Strip of plywood under the 1/2-inch PVC pipes where the 4-inch rounds are located. You are using the plywood to align the 1/2-inch PVC and 4-inch PVC pipes.
2. Mix up 2-part epoxy and place the mixed epoxy on the top and bottom of each 4-inch PVC circle and rotate the circle to squish the epoxy between the wood and the circle. Do this for each circle.
3. (See How-To Update Video) Using a powered stapler, apply a 5/8-inch staple on the top and bottom of each circle. This will drive a staple through the PVC into the wood securing the PVC Circle.
{% embed url="" %}
Update Video Demonstrating applying the staple to the 4-inch circle
{% endembed %}
#### Assembly: Fence Finial
Using the 2 part epoxy, mix up smaller batches of epoxy. Apply the epoxy inside each finial base and place on the top of each vertical PVC pipe. Make sure to align each finial to your desired look.
## Finish Work
This section will go through a few things to consider when finishing your fence.
### Tools and Supplies
#### Supplies
* Pillar or Post (See '[Choose a Pillar or Post](#choosing-a-pillar-or-post)')
* Mounting Hardware (See '[Mounting Your Fence Panel](#mounting-your-fence-panel)')
* Spray Paint - Flat/Matte (Black)
* Spar Urethane Satin Water Based Exterior Clear coat ([Minwax 630520444](https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/products/minwax-water-based-helmsman-indooroutdoor-spar-urethane))
* 10in Spike Nail (Qty 2 / End Column)
* Plastic wood filler
* Sandpaper / Sanding Sponges
* Moss ([DIY](/projects/halloween/decor/moss-diy) / [Fear Finish](https://fearfinish.com/product/moss-fx-kit-preorders-pickup-tw-or-ships-after-4-8/))
* Rust ([Fear Finish](https://fearfinish.com/product/rust-fx-kit/))
### Paint
Paint is important to give you the realistic look to your fence panel. Since you are painting plastic you will need to use a high bond primer to make sure your paint stays affixed to your prop. We use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond Primer that is tinted as dark as it can be tinted without sacrificing the integrity of the primer. There are other brands that make a high bond primer for highly slick or high gloss surfaces (E.g. Kilz Adhesion Primer).
In terms of paint, we use the Sherwin Williams A-100 Exterior paint tinted to the Tricorn Black color. Using the exterior paint as a base is important if the fence will be outdoors. This will not inhibit things if you use Fear Finish Metalhead Rust. Just note that you will need to use interior paint with the metalhead to apply the metal to your prop for rusting. If you use exterior paint to apply the metalhead, it will reduce the rust effect when applying the activator.
It is recommended to use a sprayer style of application of paint.
## Choosing a Pillar or Post
Choosing a post or pillar to hold your fence panel is important to the look you are trying to achieve but also something that can be secure to the ground to keep the post upright. This section will take you through picking your post, how to mount your fence panel to that post, and how to mount the post to the ground.
Post Build Video Tutorial Coming Soon!
### Tools and Supplies (Post)
Supplies
* Vertical Post: (Options...)
* 6 ft Plastic Lg, Gray, Opaque, Square Tubes, 5/64 in Wall Thick, 2 in Outside Wd ([Grainger](https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Tube-Stock-6-ft-Plastic-Lg-60DM97))
* 2x2 Lumber
* 2x3 Lumber
* 2x4 Lumber
* 4x4 Lumber
* Mounting Base (Plywood) - Treated plywood if you are using it outdoors.
* Pan Head Screws
* \>= 2" Screw(s)
## Mounting Your Fence Panel
With the fence panel you have two ways the panel will need to be held... both upright and secured to the ground.
#### Fence Panel to Post Mounting
With mounting the panel to the post there are many ways you can think that would work. Using a right angle bracket corner piece from your local hardware store is a simple solution to mount your fence panel to your post. We use 3/4" pan head screws to secure the mounts to the wood runner on the fence panels and 3/4" - 1-3/4" pan head screws to secure the mounts to either a post or wood backed foam pillar (screw needs to be long enough to make it through the foam into the wood.
If you are looking for some more authentic fence panel mount prop solutions check out Maker86 Industries store. They offer pre-made solutions and digital downloads for purchase. ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-dcor), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials), [STL Digital Download](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-mount-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor-stl-digital-download))
#### Post to Ground Mounting
When it comes to mounting the posts to the ground we use the same technique as the foam props, using a plywood base that has holes drilled for 10" spikes to be driven into the ground. Check out the '[Tombstones](/projects/halloween/tombstones)' pages and the '[Foam Prop Base Build](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBsPZkYt_9I)' video for how to apply this technique.
With the Square PVC pipe we do add a 2ft piece of 2x2 lumber to the base to give the PVC something to attach to. We use 3/4" pan head screws to secure the PVC on one side to the 2x2 lumber. Screw a 2" screw through the base up throgh the 2x2 to attach them together.
{% embed url="" %}
## Choosing a Post Cap
This is left up to you on how you want the finish of your post to look. If you are looking for some authentic post cap prop solutions check out Maker86 Industries store. They offer pre-made solutions and digital downloads for purchase. ([Maker86](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-cap-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor), [Maker86 Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/faux-wrought-iron-fence-kit-w-finials), [STL Digital Download](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/fence-post-cap-faux-wrought-iron-fence-decor-stl-digital-download))
## Finishing Your Prop
See the '[Finishing Techniques](/projects/halloween/decor/finishing-techniques)' Page
# Finishing Techniques
One place to get a lot of finishing techniques. Between 2023 and 2024 techniques will be added to help with your prop building.
# Beetlejuice Arrow Sign Prop Replica
M86 Props Kit build of the Beetlejuice Arrow Sign Prop Replica
Love the movie Beetlejuice
## Links
M86 Props Kit Build Product Page
## Tools
* [ ] Brad Nailer or Crown Stapler
* [ ] Caulk Dispenser
* [ ] Paint Brush or Paint Sprayer
## Supplies
* [ ] 1/2in Brad Nailers or Crown Staples
* [ ] 3/4in Brad Nailers or Crown Staples
* [ ] (2 Tubes) Liquid Nails Heavy Duty
* [ ] Wood Putty / Wood Filler
* [ ] White Paint
* [ ] Red Paint
## Assembly
### Step 1
### Step 2
### Step 3
### Step 4
### Step 5: Arrow Tail
Assembling the arrows all of the pieces are numbered with a leading two letters, "AT#" and "AB#". "AT" translates to "Arrow Top" or the tail of the arrow above the sign and "AB" translates to "Arrow Bottom" or the point of the arrow below the sign. Assembly is in clockwise order starting at the panel that would be closest to the main sign, parallel to the top or bottom of the sign. Pay attention to the placement of the wall of the arrow in relation to the base panel, the overlap is important.
AT1
AT2
AT3
AT4
### Step 6: Arrow Point
Assembling the arrows all of the pieces are numbered with a leading two letters, "AT#" and "AB#". "AT" translates to "Arrow Top" or the tail of the arrow above the sign and "AB" translates to "Arrow Bottom" or the point of the arrow below the sign. Assembly is in clockwise order starting at the panel that would be closest to the main sign, parallel to the top or bottom of the sign. Pay attention to the placement of the wall of the arrow in relation to the base panel, the overlap is important.
# Electronics & Automations
## Home Assistant
Coming soon!
## espHome Devices
When life gives you pumpkins you make pumpkin-aid? Well when life gives you an D1mini and the espHome platform you make custom electronics to automate your Halloween experience. I am a huge home automation fanatic and have been neck deep in Home Assistant for about since 2017. Well with espHome it has made making custom devices so much easier. Check out the devices I have made over the years. ([espHome Project Page](https://esphome.io/))
{% content-ref url="/pages/1V6Ma6GqRWIkbww2FulW" %}
[Motion Sensor Array](/projects/halloween/electronics-and-automations/motion-sensor-array)
{% endcontent-ref %}
### Ethernet IO Node Breakout Board
Coming Soon!
### Smart Fogger
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MiWoAa\_G8MWU3niBjUm" %}
[Smart Fog Controller Hack](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks/smart-fog-controller-hack)
{% endcontent-ref %}
### Audio Effects Triggers
Coming Soon!
# Motion Sensor Array
Coming in 2024!
# Smart Lantern Upgrade
Coming in September 2022!
# Fogger Hacks
Looking to hack your fogger / smoke machine to get more out of it, these hacks may be right for you. I have been doing fog effects since I was a teen and it can be a fun medium to work. (#Halloween)
## Homemade Fog Fluid
Make your own fog fluid... this is the spell book that contains it.
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MiWm5C05PCIZAZj8x1B" %}
[Homemade Fog Fluid](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks/homemade-fog-fluid)
{% endcontent-ref %}
## Fog Distribution System
Looking for a way to distribute your fog in your Halloween décor... this might be for you.
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MiWnAm8odfqEdazT-wn" %}
[Fog Distribution System](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks/fog-distribution-system)
{% endcontent-ref %}
## Smart Fog Controller Hack
Looking to integrate your fog machine into Home Automation or just simply make it wifi enabled... This will show you how.
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MiWoAa\_G8MWU3niBjUm" %}
[Smart Fog Controller Hack](/projects/halloween/fogger-hacks/smart-fog-controller-hack)
{% endcontent-ref %}
## Multi-Fog-Switcher Controller Hack
Coming Soon!
# Homemade Fog Fluid
Make your own fog fluid... this is the spell book that contains it.
## Homemade Fog Fluid
Fog fluid getting a bit expensive or you are like me and need to run fog machines for 4 hours a night for an entire month. Here is an easy guide to making your own fog fluid.
### Supplies Needed
* Vegetable Glycerin (99.7% or greater purity)
* Distilled Water
* (Optional) Vinegar
### The Spell... uhhh I mean Recipe
* 20% Glycerin
* 80% Distilled Water
* (Optional) Cap Full of Vinegar / Gallon
This is my ideal mixture (by volume). You can vary your glycerin to water ratio as low at 10/90 and ratio as high as 30/70.
{% embed url="" %}
## Customizing off the Shelf Fluid
Looking to boost your off the shelf fluid to be a thicker mixture? Most Halloween store stock fluids are about a 10% concentration of glycerin/glycol to Distilled water. You can boost the concentration by adding more glycerin to the mixture. See my Maker Your Own Fog Fluid video below for the section on Customizing off the Shelf Fluid.
{% embed url="" %}
# Fog Machine Maintenance
Keep those fog machines running for years with a little TLC at the beginning and end of every season!
Coming Soon! Video In Production!
# Fog Distribution System
The Fog Creeper... Looking for a way to distribute your fog and get a low lying effect without ice or water misters... this might be for you.
After years of trial and error, hardware store visits, plumbing purchases, design iteration after design iteration. I have found a way to get consistently distributed fog, that inherently is low lying (no ice needed) in an outdoor environment. This system is intended to be modular, where it is configurable to your needs.
{% embed url="" %}
### ***Product and Spec Page:*** [***https://maker86.com/fog-creeper***](https://maker86.com/fog-creeper)
{% embed url="" %}
# Smart Fog Controller Hack
Looking to integrate your fog machine into Home Automation or just simply make it wifi enabled... This will show you how.
This project is a bit more complex but if you ever want to control a fog machine with Home Automation, this post is for you. The hack is designed where you can still use the original features of the machine with the added benefits of a smart device. Details and Circuit Design Coming Soon!
#### **Note: Working with AC voltages is DANGEROUS, care must be taken to prevent any short circuits or mistakes in connection. And as always, you are doing this project at your own risk and the Author cannot be held liable for any damages.**
{% embed url="" %}
The concept explained and demo'ed
{% endembed %}
### Supplies
* [ ] 5V Relay Module (1 Channel)
* [ ] AC Sensing Circuit (See "Building an AC Sensing Circuit")
* [ ] D1 Mini ESP8266 (or an ESP8266/ESP32 board alternative but you will need to adapt the pin configuration)
* [ ] (Optional) 5V 1A 6W Isolated Switching Power Supply (PLG06A-5V)
* [ ] (Optional) Computer power cord extension cable, 1.5ft (Monoprice has the best price)
* [ ] (Optional) Qty 2 - GX16-3 Panel Metal Mount Circular Metal Aviation Connector Adapter Male Female Plug Socket (3 Pins)
* [ ] Fog Machine (This article is designed around the Chauvet Hurricane 700 but most fog machines would work with this hack)
### Building an AC Sensing Circuit
Since a fog machine runs on AC power you need a way to convert the AC signal that indicates the fog machine is ready into a microprocessor. This can be done with an AC sensing circuit who's primary components are a Bridge Rectifier and an Optocoupler. See the circuit diagrams below.
To make this compatible with 220v AC current you will need to swap the 33k ohm and 330 ohm resistors. Details coming soon.
{% file src="/files/-MiPNq\_x6Fd5AdbQvnhD" %}
110v AC Sense Circuit
{% endfile %}
#### AC Sensing Circuit Build (5v only)
Parts
* [ ] 2cm x 8cm PCB (Cut in half) \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Prototype-Breadboard-Universal-Printed/dp/B07Y3GMWD9)]
* [ ] DB107 Bridge Rectifier \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Rectron/DB107?qs=G5AQjGfRJcLGAY%252B6bEDnbw%3D%3D)]
* [ ] LTV-816 Optocoupler \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lite-On/LTV-816?qs=sfOAxtv3rnlEM8E%2Fng3XdA%3D%3D)]
* [ ] 33k ohm, 1/2 watt Resistor \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/YAGEO/CFR-50JB-52-33K?qs=oypCK0zG3245HXmmN0J37w%3D%3D)]
* [ ] 330 ohm, 1/2 watt Resistor \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Ohmite/OL3315E-R52?qs=AkUtuiJmyfk3KOPbSIrf1g%3D%3D)]
* [ ] 2.2 uf Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/ESK225M050AC3KA?qs=gt1LBUVyoHmKIkBJoUo3Yg%3D%3D)]
* [ ] 2 Pole Fixed Terminal Block \[[Mouser](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/39357-0002?qs=c7V%252BsbZfmqvL0V%252BWJEAGdg%3D%3D)]
* [ ] (Optional) Male Header Pin \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/MCIGICM-Header-2-45mm-Arduino-Connector/dp/B07PKKY8BX)] (You can direct wire to the ESP board, I tend to modularize things if I need to replace parts in the future)
Details and Build Video Coming Soon!
### Hacking the controller
Hacking the system boils down to tapping into the wires that feed the remote to sense when the LED turns on indicating it is ready to disperse fog and connecting the two wires together that trigger the fog. AC power is what runs the entire fog machine to proceed with caution and at your own risk.
See the wiring diagram below to understand how each component interconnects to make up the entire smart hack.
#### Common Controller Color Code Conversion
There is a common controller that is used on no-name or non mainstream brands of fog machines which uses a yellow, brown and blue color coding. Below you will find a color conversion for this remote with the color coding found in Chauvet Hurricane remotes.
Black = Yellow\
Green = Brown\
White = Blue
### Providing Power
There are two ways to provide power to your D1 Mini... either through a USB micro power supply or by tapping into the the fog machine power cord and using a PLG06A-5V transformer (see "Wiring Diagram").
### The Build
From This...
To This...
**To THIS...**
Details Coming Soon!
### Flashing Your Controller
I am not going to cover how to flash an espHome because there documentation that already exists to do this. Visit the [espHome site](https://esphome.io/guides/getting_started_hassio.html) for installation details or add the espHome plugin to Hass.io to flash an espHome device. I have provided a template YAML config based on the diagram above.
{% file src="/files/-MiRqwdmpHVRj8mOCMde" %}
espHome Fog Machine YAML (D1 Mini)
{% endfile %}
# Animatronics and Special Effects
# Pumpkin Carving
See how we do pumpkin carving... (#Halloween)
We strive for the perfect pumpkin carving and our techniques are different but the result is great. Don't forget to visit the photo album at the end of this post to see more photos of how we carve and things we have carved in the past.
## Gutting the Pumpkin
Can I just say... POWER TOOLS! This got its origins about 6 years ago when my annoyance with the time consuming nature of gutting a pumpkin with those pathetic spoons you buy in the kits... so I grabbed one of the egg beater attachments from my wife's hand mixer. It is the best way to clean out the guts of a pumpkin quick.
## Carving: The Transfer Technique
Things you need... a dental pick, a printout of what you want to cut into the pumpkin and packing tape. This technique is really simple, you tape the printout to the pumpkin and poke holes through the tape/paper into the pumpkin around the areas you want to cut to transfer the image to the pumpkin.
## Carving: Free Hand Technique
Coming Soon!
## Persevering your Pumpkins
Coming Soon!
### Wash your Pumpkin
Coming Soon!
### Moisturize your Pumpkin
Coming Soon!
### NO CANDLES!!!!!!
Coming Soon!
## Pumpkin Carving Photo Album
[The MalaMaker Pumpkin Carving Photo Album](https://photos.app.goo.gl/chWgGEbxQFwkAZXdA)
# Arcade Games
# Skee Ball Xtreme
Go on the journey of exploring the Skee Ball Xtreme Alley game. We picked up our game in 2023 and are the 4th owners.
The **Skee Ball Xtreme Alley** is a beloved arcade classic that blends nostalgia with fun. This page documents the journey of diagnosing, repairing, and restoring the game after its acquisition in **July 2023**. Whether you're restoring your own machine or exploring its mechanics, this guide aims to be a comprehensive resource.
{% embed url="" %}
***
## Features
* **Manufacturer:** Skee-Ball
* **Model:** Xtreme Alley
* **Dimensions:** H: 79″ W: 30″ D: 120″ Weight: 400lbs.
* **Special Features:**
* LED score display
* Ball return system
***
## Restoration Journey
### Initial Condition
* **Date Acquired:** July 2023
* **State:** All of the core parts came with the machine and the original purchase receipt. The machine acrylic is cracked in some areas. The marquee printing is separating from the acrylic and needs to be replaced. The left 100 slot peg to keep the ball from getting stuck in the corner is missing. Came with 5 skee balls and not the full 9 balls.
* **Issues Identified:**
* Occasional miss on a few opto reflective sensors
### Diagnosis and Repairs
**Coming Soon!**
***
## Technical Resources
### Manual
{% file src="/files/Qz4EIipt9mH1iAEw6EoD" %}
### Diagrams
* Coming Soon!
### Parts and Suppliers
| Part Name | Supplier | Notes |
| ---------- | ---------------- | ------------------- |
| \[Part #1] | \[Supplier Name] | \[Additional notes] |
| \[Part #2] | \[Supplier Name] | \[Additional notes] |
***
## Media
#### Gallery
* **Coming Soon!**
#### Videos
{% embed url="" %}
***
## Fun Facts
The **Skee-Ball Xtreme Alley** is a modern iteration of the classic Skee-Ball game, designed to enhance the traditional gameplay experience with contemporary features. While specific historical details about the Xtreme Alley model are limited, understanding the evolution of Skee-Ball provides valuable context.
**Origins of Skee-Ball**
Skee-Ball was invented and patented in 1908 by Joseph Fourestier Simpson in Vineland, New Jersey. The game quickly became a staple in arcades and amusement parks, captivating players with its simple yet challenging gameplay.
[Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skee-Ball?utm_source=chatgpt.com)
**Evolution of Skee-Ball Machines**
Over the years, Skee-Ball machines have undergone various transformations to keep pace with technological advancements and player preferences. These updates have included electronic scoring systems, enhanced lighting, and durable materials to improve longevity and user engagement. The introduction of models like the Xtreme Alley reflects the industry's efforts to modernize the game while preserving its nostalgic appeal.
**Skee-Ball Xtreme Alley Features**
The Skee-Ball Xtreme Alley is known for incorporating features such as:
* **Advanced Scoring Displays:** Utilizing LED technology for clear and dynamic score presentations.
* **Enhanced Durability:** Constructed with robust materials to withstand extensive use in both commercial and home settings.
* **Modern Aesthetics:** Featuring sleek designs and vibrant colors to attract a contemporary audience.
# Games
Check out the custom games we have played.
# Among Us (Live Action Play)
For my twin boys 6th Birthday we put together an unexpected super successful version of a live action play version of Among Us (Real Life Game). We want to share how we did it.
## **Game Description...**
**"Among Us is basically a game of survival, where you either have to vote off all of the imposters and complete all the tasks, and the imposter has to kill all of the crewmates or stop them from completing the designated tasks to win."** [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Among_Us)
## Game Play Setup...
* Each player receives a whistle
* Establish a graveyard for crewmate ghosts and players voted out
* Establish an emergency meeting button or table to meet around for emergency meetings / dead body reports. Having an audible button will help the game moderator know when it is pressed. If you want a cheap option, go to staples and buy an easy button... they are around $6.
* Put up signs for task stations that are more subtle or harder to find
* Spread out your tasks. We used our front yard, back yard and garage to place tasks.
* Place tasks in spots that give imposters the ability to tag crewmates and not be seen.
* We have a fenced in yard and did not allow gates to be used to get from front to back, instead we used the door to the back yard in our garage as the only way to get from front to back. This allowed for hiding areas for imposters to do their bidding on the sides of our house.
* Make card to pass out that gives a list of what tasks each player needs to complete. Make sure each card is a different order of tasks.
* We did 5 tasks for each player and it worked out really well. Each task card had a clipart icon to help the younger kids identify what task they were to go and do next. (See [Documents and Links](https://wiki.malamaker.org/projects/games/among-us-live-action-play#documents-and-links) below for the game cards we made.)
* Kids younger than 6 might need to be pairs with an older kid or an adult.
* We had 16 kids that played... kids as young as 4 and as old as 11 that played. When we paired it down there was 12-13 groups/players.
## Game Rules...
\- 5 - 15 players... The more players the more chaotic and fun the game is.\
\- A game moderator is needed to manage the game\
\- Each Player gets a task card\
\- Crewmates must complete their tasks\
\- Imposters can't die. If an imposter tags another imposter nothing happens.\
\- An imposter must tag a crewmate to "kill" them\
\- If you are "killed" by an imposter you fall where you are tagged. Once the horn is blown you go to the graveyard and you become a "ghost" until the game is over.\
\- Blow whistle to report a dead body. Imposters can report dead bodies.\
\- If you hear fog horn meet at front table\
\- Hit front table button to call an emergency meeting and air horn will be blown\
\- Each player can call an emergency meeting once per round\
\- Ghosts are not allowed to talk to players that are alive but can talk to other ghosts and players that were voted out\
\- The game ends when there is 1 or less remaining crewmates or the crewmates vote out all the imposters or the remaining crewmates complete their tasks\
\- Voting skip... hold your hand up in the air when you are asked to vote.\
\- Voting someone out of the game... Point at who you are voting for.\
\- (Optional) The Identity of the Person voted out will be revealed before they go to the graveyard.\
\- Just like in the real game have fun with the rules and change things up with each round to keep it interesting and fun.
## Meeting Table -n- Graveyard
## **Task Stations...**
**- Archery... Hit the target 3 times**
**- Shoot 5 Nerf darts through ring**
**- Stack and Unstack cups**
**- Jump in Bouncy house 10 times and slide down slide... No Shoes!**
**- Put puzzle together and undo**
**- Go down the slide 3 times**
**- Load hot wheels track and launch cars twice**
**- Complete the maze (paper)**
**- Roll dice until you get doubles**
**- Kick soccer ball into the goal 5 times**
## Game Layout...
## Documents and Links
(Game Cards / Display Signs) Google Sheet Doc: / PDF:
# Toys
# Lionel Ready To Play Train Set
Custom Track Pieces Designed to fit and work with the Lionel Ready-To-Play Train Sets
# Criss-Cross Track (LR2P)
Lionel Ready-To-Play Compatible 90 Degree Criss-Cross Track
This is a custom crisscross train track compatible with the Lionel Ready to Play Train sets. This track was based on the 2017 Polar Express Lionel Train Set Parts but is compatible with other Lionel Ready to Play sets.
A complete set for the crisscross setup contains the following part counts:
* [ ] (Qty 1) Crisscross Track (LR2P\_Train\_CrissCrossTrack)
* [ ] (Qty 4) Crisscross Straight Short Track (LR2P\_Train\_CrissCrossStraightTrack)
**Note** If you have the base track set and want to do a complete figure 8 with the crisscross set you will need 4 additional stock straight track and 12 additional stock curve track. Lionel sells expansion packs of 12 track for stock straight and curve track.
{% embed url="" %}
Parts are 3D printed in black ABS plastic.
## Track Layouts
### Double Loop (Figure 8)
## Product Listings and 3D Model Downloads
### M86 Toys
#### (Official Ready to Play Compatible Toy Site)
Store Listing:
Railway Adventure Track Set:
Build Your Own Bundle (3 or more core\* Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Accessories)\
Bundle Listing:
**\* \* M86 Toys has a shop small business discount applied at checkout for all items purchased through the site. Etsy and other similar platforms charge fee's on every purchase. By shopping on M86 Toys directly you are saving the money by avoiding those fee's. \* \***
### Etsy
Etsy Listing:
### 3D Models
3D Models:
(Models are Licensed Under "CC BY-NC" )
(\*) Core accessories include criss cross tracks, loco loader track, bumper track, and railroad crossing tracks. Other pre-defined bundles are not included with the build your own bundle.
# Railroad Crossing (LR2P)
Lionel Ready-To-Play Compatible Railroad Crossing
This is a custom railroad crossing train track with (optional) 2 signs compatible with the Lionel Ready to Play Train sets. This track was based on the 2017 Polar Express Lionel Train Set Parts but is compatible with other Lionel Ready to Play sets.
A complete set for the railroad crossing setup has the following part counts:
* [ ] (Qty 1) Railroad Crossing Track
* [ ] (Optional - Max Qty 2) Railroad Crossing Signs
{% embed url="" %}
Track Parts are 3D printed in black ABS plastic. Signs are resin printed or resin casted in white.
## Product Listings and 3D Model Downloads
### M86 Toys
#### (Official Ready to Play Compatible Toy Site)
M86 Toys Store Listing (Track Set):
M86 Toys Store Listing (Sign Only):
M86 Toys Railway Adventure Track Set:
*M86 Toys Build Your Own Bundle* (3 or more core\* Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Accessories)\
Bundle Listing:
**\* \* M86 Toys has a shop small business discount applied at checkout for all items purchased through the site. Etsy and other similar platforms charge fee's on every purchase. By shopping on M86 Toys directly you are saving the money by avoiding those fee's. \* \***
### Etsy
Etsy Listing (Track Set): \
Etsy Listing (Sign Only):
### 3D Models
3D Models: \
3D Models:
(Models are Licensed Under "CC BY-NC" )
(\*) Core accessories include criss cross tracks, loco loader track, bumper track, and railroad crossing tracks. Other pre-defined bundles are not included with the build your own bundle.
# Track Bumper (LR2P)
This is a custom railroad bumper train track compatible with the Lionel Ready to Play Train sets. This track was based on the 2017 Polar Express Lionel Train Set Parts but is compatible with other Lionel Ready to Play sets.
{% embed url="" %}
Track Parts are 3D printed in black ABS plastic. Cross board are resin casted in brown. (The resin cast original 3D model will not be released on Thingiverse/3Dcults or any other like sites)
## Product Listings and 3D Model Downloads
### M86 Toys
#### (Official Ready to Play Compatible Toy Site)
Listing:
Railway Adventure Track Set:
Build Your Own Bundle (3 or more core\* Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Accessories) \
Bundle Listing:
**\*\* M86 Toys has a shop small business discount applied at checkout for all items purchased through the site. Etsy and other similar platforms charge fee's on every purchase. By shopping on M86 Toys directly you are saving the money by avoiding those fee's. \*\***
### Etsy
Etsy Listing:
### 3D Models
3D Models: \
3D Models:
(Models are Licensed Under "CC BY-NC" )
# 60 Degree Crisscross Track (LR2P)
Lionel Ready-To-Play Compatible Criss-Cross Track
This is a custom 60 degree crisscross train track compatible with the Lionel Ready to Play Train sets. This track was based on the 2017 Polar Express Lionel Train Set Parts but is compatible with other Lionel Ready to Play sets.
A complete set for the crisscross setup contains the following part counts...
[60 Degree Crisscross (Single Piece Configuration)](https://m86toys.com/product/crisscross-train-track-60-degree-lionel-ready-to-play-compatible-2/)
* [ ] (Qty 1) 60 Crisscross Track
[60 Degree Crisscross (5 Piece Configuration w/ 25mm Short Tracks)](https://m86toys.com/product/crisscross-train-track-60-degree-lionel-ready-to-play-compatible-2/)
* [ ] (Qty 1) 60 Crisscross Track (5 Piece Configuration for 25mm Extensions)
* [ ] (Qty 4) Crisscross 25mm Straight Short Track
[60 Degree Crisscross (5 Piece Configuration w/ 55mm Short Tracks)](https://m86toys.com/product/crisscross-train-track-60-degree-lionel-ready-to-play-compatible-2/)
* [ ] (Qty 1) 60 Crisscross Track (5 Piece Configuration for 55mm Extensions)
* [ ] (Qty 4) Crisscross 55mm Straight Short Track
## Track Layouts
### Triple Loop Setup
### Double Loop Setup
**Note:** To set up a complete figure 8 with the 60 degree crisscross set you will need 24 straight track and 32 curve track. Needing additional curve and straight track, Lionel sells 12 piece expansion packs.
{% embed url="" %}
## Product Listings and 3D Model Downloads
### M86 Toys
#### (Official Ready to Play Compatible Toy Site)
Listing:
Triple Loop Thrill Expansion Kit:
Build Your Own Bundle (3 or more core\* Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Accessories) \
Bundle Listing:
\*\* M86 Toys has a shop small business discount applied at checkout for all items purchased through the site. Etsy and other similar platforms charge fee's on every purchase. By shopping on M86 Toys directly you are saving the money by avoiding those fee's. \*\*
### Etsy
Etsy Listing:
### 3D Models
3D Print Settings:\
\- Filament: ABS (Black)\
\- Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm\
\- Layer Height: 0.25-0.35mm\
\- Support Configuration: Supports at angle 55 degrees or greater
3D Models:
(Models are Licensed Under the Maker86 Industries Digital Download License )
(\*) Core accessories include crisscross tracks, loco loader track, bumper track, and railroad crossing tracks. Other pre-defined bundles are not included with the build your own bundle.
# Loco-Loader Express Track (LR2P)
Lionel Ready-To-Play Compatible Train Locomotive / Train Car Loader
Simplify the fun of train play with our Loco-Loader Express Track. This double-duty accessory enhances loading ease for your Lionel Ready to play train sets while doubling as a versatile, straight track. All aboard for effortless excitement! The Loco-Loader Express Track: A double-length straight train track accessory for Lionel Ready to play sets, streamlining locomotive and car loading.
{% embed url="" %}
## Product Listings and 3D Model Downloads
### M86 Toys
#### (Official Ready to Play Compatible Toy Site)
Listing:
Build Your Own Bundle (3 or more core\* Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Accessories)\
Bundle Listing:
\*\* M86 Toys has a shop small business discount applied at checkout for all items purchased through the site. Etsy and other similar platforms charge fee's on every purchase. By shopping on M86 Toys directly you are saving the money by avoiding those fee's. \*\*
### Etsy
Etsy Listing:
### 3D Models
3D Print Settings:\
\- Filament: ABS (Black)\
\- Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm\
\- Layer Height: 0.25-0.35mm\
\- Support Configuration: Supports at angle 55 degrees or greater
3D Models:
(Models are Licensed Under the Maker86 Industries Digital Download License )
(\*) Core accessories include criss cross tracks, loco loader track, bumper track, and railroad crossing tracks. Other pre-defined bundles are not included with the build your own bundle.
# Ramp and Elevated Track System (LR2P)
Dive into the journey of creating our Lionel Ready to Play Compatible Elevated Track System, available on M86 Toys called the "Sky Bridge Collection".
This is a custom ramp and elevated track system to add more dynamics and fun to the Lionel Ready to Play train sets. Sets that Lionel only released straight, curve and switch tracks. The Sky Bridge collection takes the train to a whole new level... sorry I couldn't resist!
{% embed url="" %}
## Bushing Install (Pennsylvania & Polar Express Locomotives Only)
{% embed url="" %}
## The Back Story
{% embed url="" %}
# Playskool Express 1988 - 1991 Train Sets and Accessories
This retro train set was one of my favorite and easy to use train sets growing up.
I remember as a kid playing with both the 1988 and the 1991 train sets. I received for Christmas the 1988 train set from Santa and my brother who was 4 years younger than me later received the 1991 train set. This set was easy to use for kids and durable. As years have gone by and now having kids of my own, I was very disappointed in the young kid train set options so I am setting out to bring this set back to life.
{% embed url="" %}
## How-To and Tutorials
{% content-ref url="/pages/hwAoLUm1bvwNfMAP3SY7" %}
[Locomotive Assembly and Maintenance (Playskool Express)](/projects/toys/playskool-express-1988-1991-train-sets-and-accessories/locomotive-assembly-and-maintenance-playskool-express)
{% endcontent-ref %}
## Manuals
If you have other [Playskool Express accessories and set](https://playskoolexpress.com/p-e-products/) manuals, please send them to us at
{% file src="/files/qfYy4sJ1B0HnHXx2TnKy" %}
{% file src="/files/RRBin0bUi069ao6uhxyH" %}
* TrackLayoutForPlayskoolExpress.pdf:
## 1988 Model Variations & Dating Your Train
{% embed url="" %}
Through repairing and restoring a growing number of Playskool Express locomotives, I began noticing consistent physical differences across units that are all labeled as **1988 models**. Over time, these differences formed clear patterns that point to **multiple manufacturing revisions during the first year of production**.
At this point, I have personally worked on roughly **17–18 locomotives**, including one example that appears to fall **between two known production versions**. Based on repeated tear-down inspection and repair work, I currently recognize **three primary production variants** within the 1988 locomotive line, along with several smaller feature changes that occurred throughout manufacturing.
These differences are primarily concentrated in the **lower chassis and drive wheel assembly**, and revolve around two specific design changes that provide reliable identification of production version.
***
### Identified Production Versions
The observed production variants can be grouped as follows:
| Production Version | Lower Chassis Nose | Drive Axle Bushings | Notes |
| -------------------- | ------------------ | ------------------- | ------------------------------- |
| **Early 1988** | Present | Present | Earliest configuration observed |
| **Mid 1988** | Present | Absent | Transitional design revision |
| **Late 1988 → 1991** | Absent | Absent | Final production configuration |
***
### Feature #1 – Lower Chassis Nose Geometry
Early and mid-production 1988 locomotives include a **raised molded protrusion (“nose”)** at the front of the lower chassis cover. In later production, this molded feature was **removed entirely**, resulting in a flatter and simplified front profile.
This difference is visible once the lower chassis cover is removed and serves as a clear indicator of **early or mid-1988 production**.
* **Nose present** → Early or mid 1988 production
* **Nose absent** → Late 1988 or 1991 production
This feature alone does not distinguish early from mid-1988 models but reliably separates early/mid units from later production.
***
### Feature #2 – Drive Wheel Axle Bushings
Early 1988 locomotives utilize **plastic axle bushings on both sides of the drive wheel axles**, creating a bearing surface between the axle and the chassis.
Mid-1988 and later models eliminated these bushings, and the axle instead **rides directly against the molded chassis plastic**.
This difference is visible once the lower shell is removed and provides the **primary distinguishing feature between early and mid-1988 production**.
* **Bushings present** → Early 1988 production
* **Bushings absent** → Mid 1988 or later production
***
### Combined Identification Guide
Using both features together allows reliable production classification:
| Chassis Nose | Axle Bushings | Classification |
| ------------ | ------------- | -------------------- |
| Present | Present | **Early 1988** |
| Present | Absent | **Mid 1988** |
| Absent | Absent | **Late 1988 – 1991** |
This method allows accurate identification without reliance on packaging, documentation, or serial markings.
## External Links
* M86 Toys Playskool Express Parts and Accessories:
* PlayskoolExpress.com "The site devoted to Playskool Express trains!":
* (Playskool Express, Hasbro) Track assembly for toy vehicle Patent US4953785A:
* EBay Listings:
# Locomotive Assembly and Maintenance (Playskool Express)
## Disassembly Instruction
Need help disassembling and reassembling your locomotive. Check out my video showing the process and talking through the parts.
{% embed url="" %}
## Locomotive Disassembled
Coming Soon!
## Replacement Parts
Finding parts for this train set in the last few years seemed to be scabbing from one train and transferring to another. I am working to restore this train to its former glory and provide parts from the motor control system, to common broken parts, and eventually even replacement locomotives and track.
Locomotive Traction Bands:
Locomotive Cab Cap:
Train Car Union Hook and Spring:
Train Car Wheels:
Motor Control System: Coming Soon
Motor Control System Battery Contacts: Coming Soon
Locomotive Drive Wheel Helical Gear:
Locomotive Drive Motor Worm Gear:
Locomotive Switch Fork:
Locomotive Switch Rocker:
Locomotive Chassis Shim (Front Drive Wheel Wear Repair):
Locomotive Motor:
Locomotive PCB Switch:
## Motor Control Board and Battery Contact Clean up
Coming Soon!
# Matchbox Action Driver Compatible City Roads and Interstate
## Drawings and Dimensions
{% file src="/files/lzGsHGaQgKCXrYNrSaPd" %}
Interstate Curve Road
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/fpp7oADeJwtGqKGyiPyE" %}
Interstate Straight Road w/ Wide Shoulder
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/xNYdYFbGARwpWbMBMUoE" %}
Interstate Straight Road w/ Narrow Shoulder
{% endfile %}
# Hobby
# Death Racer
Custom upgrades and mods for Death Racer RC battle vehicles — from cast urethane track shoes to integrated wheelie bar battery covers. Mods by MalaMaker
# Cast Track Shoes
Learn how to use M86 Toys' cast urethane track shoes for Death Racer builds. Includes part links, trimming tips, compatibility info, and tutorial resources.
### Overview
The cast urethane track shoes are a high-durability upgrade for Death Racer builds, developed through extensive trial, error, and live-streamed prototyping. These track shoes are compatible with M86 Toys' 3D printable track link and frame system and offer improved traction and flexibility over fully printed treads.
### Development History
These track shoes were developed through months of iteration and testing, featured prominently on [LeeMerie3D’s YouTube channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmLtsFOepwwkui0OEztvjfg). The final version was showcased at the 2025 Rocky Mountain RepRap Festival (RMRRF) as part of their competitive Death Racer build.
### How It Works
* **Track Shoes**: Cast in flexible urethane rubber
* **Bundle Size**: Shoes are cast in sprued bundles of 6
* **Fitment**: Designed to work with M86 Toys’ track link and modified track frame system
* **Trimming**: Untrimmed sets require sprue/vent trimming with side cutters
### What You’ll Need
* M86 urethane track shoes ([6pc](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-urethane-track-shoes-6pc-spare-repair-pack/) or [full set](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-urethane-rubber-track-shoe-set-68pc-tread-upgrade/))
* M86 3D printable track link STL files
* Modified track frame STL files
* Side cutters or flush cutters (for untrimmed sets)
* Track pins or fasteners of your choice
#### Links:
* 🔗 Track Shoes
* Color: Black ([Full Shoe Set \[68pcs\]](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-urethane-rubber-track-shoe-set-68pc-tread-upgrade/) / [Repair & Replacement Shoes \[6pcs\]](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-urethane-track-shoes-6pc-spare-repair-pack/))
* 🔗 [Track Link & Frame STEP / STL Files](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-malamaker-upgrades-digital-downloads/) (Use 'malamaker-wiki-reader' code during checkout to get the digital files for free... heads up if we find this code in forums we will kill the free download code)
* 🔗 [Watch the Build Process on LeeMerie3D](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmLtsFOepwwkui0OEztvjfg)
### How-To Video
A full video tutorial will be available soon, walking through:
* Trimming sprues and vents
* Assembling the track using M86 links
* Mounting to the modified Death Racer frame
👉 Link will be added here when live.
### DIY Casting
If you are DIY casting your own tracks you will want to pick up the Tread Mold digital download on M86 Toys.
#### Things you need
* [ ] (Qty 11) M6 Bolts or Threaded Rod \[Molds are approx 25mm Thick, 300mm rods needed to do a full set of tracks - 11 molds] ([McMaster - Threaded Rod](https://www.mcmaster.com/98942A227/))
* [ ] (Qty 11) M6 Wing Nuts
* [ ] (Qty 22) M6 Fender Washers \[12mm OD]
* [ ] (Qty 11\*) M6 Acorn Nuts \[Only needed if using threaded rod]
* [ ] Smooth-on Vytaflex 60 Urethane Rubber \[650 grams needed per set, Trial Kit is 2lbs / 900 grams] ([Reynolds](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/vytaflex-series/?srsltid=AfmBOoq4Hr4DouDLK_l3f_evrCr1LZzUafJeJEjMfCCOPmDkuIMi4DZ-))
* [ ] Color Pigment \[Smooth-on SO-Strong, Do not exceed 3% color] ([Reynolds](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/strong-color-tints/))
* [ ] Smooth-on Universal Mold Release ([Reynolds](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/universal-mold-release/))
* [ ] Gram Scale
* [ ] Tools to tighten mold halves
#### Casting Process
1. Wear the proper PPE (Mask, Gloves)
2. Spray the mold halves with mold release in a well ventilated space.
3. Bolt the mold halves together until snug. Do not deflect the plastic as this is a sign of over tightening.
4. Measure both stages of material for pouring in separate container keeping part A and part B separate (Stage 1 is a total of 250 grams, Stage 2 is 400 grams for a full set of 66 tracks)
5. Measure and Mix in your color in Side B only
6. **Know your material pot life and cure times before you start!!!! (60 Minute Pot Life but starts getting thick at 40 minutes)**
7. Pour Side A into Side B and mix for 1-2 minutes or until thoroughly mixed... The Pot Life Clock starts from the second side A touches Side B. Starting a 30-35 minute timer.
8. Pour Equal amounts of mixed rubber into each space, put the mold on a scale if you have trouble knowing the amount being poured into each mold. Each mold gets about 23 grams of Urethane Rubber in the first stage of the pour.
9. Wait 30-35 minutes, noted in step 7.
10. Taking Stage 2 of Part A and Part B (400 grams), repeat steps 7 and 8 but this time set a timer for 10 minutes. You will have more material than the spru will hold.
11. After 10 minutes, top off the spru of each mold. Repeat until you have run out of material.
12. Let molds cure for 16-17 hours.
13. After cure time has complete, disassemble the molds, trim the treads of sprus and vents.
14. Slide Tracks into Track Links and Drive!!!!
{% embed url="" %}
{% embed url="" %}
### Additional Recommended Upgrades
We recommend the 40amp relay kill switch upgrade to avoid burning up kill switches. With the added traction this will increase current spikes and burn up the stock switches faster. Kill Switch Relay Mod can be found [here](/projects/hobby/death-racer/kill-switch-relay-mod-headshot-trigger).
### FAQ
**Q: Can I cast my own shoes?**\
A: Yes! A mold STL file and casting tutorial will be released soon for DIY builders.
**Q: Do I need special tools to trim the uncut shoes?**\
A: A simple pair of flush cutters or side cutters is all you need.
**Q: Are the files open source?**\
A: Files are licensed for personal use only. Please see license details in the product downloads or contact Maker86 Industries (M86 Toys) for commercial licensing.
# Wheelie Bar Battery Cover
A drop-in replacement for the Death Racer battery cover that integrates a wheelie bar to prevent traction flip-overs with upgraded tracks.
### Overview
This is a **drop-in replacement for the standard Death Racer battery door**, upgraded with a built-in **wheelie bar**. It’s designed specifically for racers running the **rubber track/tread upgrade**, where the increased traction can cause the vehicle to **flip backward on launch**.
By integrating the wheelie bar into the existing battery cover location, this mod keeps your setup compact, clean, and battle-ready — no additional brackets or mounts required.
***
### Purpose
#### 🔄 Replaces the Stock Battery Door
* Installs in the same mounting location as the original battery cover
* Uses existing hardware or screws
#### 🌀 Integrated Wheelie Bar
* Prevents backflips caused by high-traction starts
* Keeps your Death Racer stable during full-throttle launches
* Adds impact protection to the rear chassis
***
### Parts List
* Printed Parts ([M86 Toys](https://m86toys.com/product/death-racer-malamaker-upgrades-digital-downloads/)) \[Use 'malamaker-wiki-reader' code during checkout to get the digital files for free... heads up **if we find this code in forums we will kill the free download code**]
* Battery Cover (M86\_Deathracer\_BCWheelieBar\_Cover)
* Left Bar (M86\_Deathracer\_BCWheelieBar\_Left)
* Right Bar (M86\_Deathracer\_BCWheelieBar\_Right)
* Bearing Spacer (M86\_Deathracer\_BCWheelieBar\_Spacer)
* Battery Cover Screen (Original Death Racer Parts)
* (Qty 4) M3 Heatset Inserts ([West3D](https://west3d.com/products/m3x4x5-threaded-heat-inserts))
* (Qty 4) M3 x 16mm Cap Screws
* (Qty 2) 608 Bearings
* (Qty 1) M8 Nut
* (Qty 1) M8 x 50mm Button Head Cap Screw
***
### Assembly
Instructions Coming Soon!
# Kill Switch Relay Mod (Headshot Trigger)
A safer, more reliable way to implement the Death Racer headshot kill switch using a relay.
### Overview
This page outlines a **reliable relay-based solution** for implementing the classic **headshot kill switch** used in Death Racer battles. When the racer figure's head is knocked off, a switch is released, triggering a shutdown of the RC receiver and rendering the vehicle inoperable — the battle is over.
> 🎯 **Gameplay Objective:** Knock off the opponent’s head to kill their vehicle.
The **"head = kill"** mechanic is standard in Death Racer builds. However, the typical method — routing battery power **directly through a mechanical switch** — has proven unreliable and **prone to burnout**, especially with 15–20 amp toggle switches.
This guide introduces the **relay mod fix**, as discussed in theory by Jeremy (M86 Toys) on [LeeMerie3D’s May 20, 2025 stream](https://www.youtube.com/live/wEGIBDx9eeo?si=O14ZI3in3b7Ro6eR\&t=817), and will be implemented in upcoming streams using this documentation.
***
### The Problem with Direct Power Switching
* Builders often run the **main battery voltage directly through the switch**
* Most toggle or magnetic switches used are **rated 15–20 amps,** under rated for the potential amp load.
* Death Racer power setups can **spike higher**, leading to **switch failure, overheating, or fire risk.** Spikes can happen when resistance is applied to motors driving the death racer.
* This puts the **entire receiver system at risk** and leads to inconsistent kills
***
### The Solution: Relay-Controlled Kill Switch
Instead of routing full power through a switch, this method uses a **low-power switch** to control a **relay**, which handles the high current load.
#### How It Works:
* A **normally-open switch** is placed under the Death Racer’s head
* When the head is attached, the switch closes and activates the **relay**
* The **relay connects the battery to the RC receiver**
* When the head is knocked off, the switch opens → the relay cuts power → the vehicle dies
> ⚠️ This isolates the mechanical switch from the full battery current and **dramatically increases reliability and safety**
***
### Featured on Stream
Jeremy (LeeMerie3D) explained this fix on [LeeMerie3D’s livestream – May 20, 2025 (13:37 mark)](https://www.youtube.com/live/wEGIBDx9eeo?si=O14ZI3in3b7Ro6eR\&t=817). Watch the live comments by "MalaMaker" explaining this addition.
***
### Parts List
* 1x Relay module (DC 12V automotive relay, 40amp recommended)
* 1x Normally-open switch (original switch designated for the death racers)
* Wire, connectors, heat shrink
***
### Wiring Concept
```
Battery (+) ───> Relay ───> RC Receiver (+)
▲
Battery (+) ───> NO Switch (Head-Mounted) ───> Battery (-)
```
* Switch is **closed** when head is on — relay stays active — receiver has power
* Switch is **open** when head is knocked off — relay cuts — vehicle is dead
***
### Mounting Tips
* Mount the switch in a way that the figure’s head holds it closed
* Use a press-fit, snap-in, or magnet-based head that reliably pops off on impact
* Secure the relay in a protected spot near the battery
***
### Safety Benefits
* Keeps high current off fragile switches
* Prevents melted switches or mid-match failures
* Increases reliability and reproducibility of kills
* Makes builds tournament-ready
***
### In Development
The final wiring demo, mounting technique, and live test of this relay-based system will be featured in an upcoming LeeMerie3D stream. This wiki page will be updated with:
* Video tutorials
* STL relay mounts
* Printable wiring diagrams
* Troubleshooting guide
***
### Want to Help?
If you’ve built this mod successfully or have refinements, consider contributing back to this page or submitting photos, diagrams, or footage of your working rig!
# Machines and Tools
You can find DIY tools, machine builds, and general machine/tool hacks here.
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MfT5t220ka3P7\_swCjo" %}
[Syil x4 CNC Mill Rebuild](/projects/machines-and-tools/syil-x4-cnc-mill-rebuild)
{% endcontent-ref %}
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MGd3PaUQHXKhZt4ErIy" %}
[Countertop Transport Cart](/projects/machines-and-tools/conter-top-transport-cart)
{% endcontent-ref %}
{% content-ref url="/pages/-MGZ0BffP6RDIVCINMem" %}
[DIY Concrete Vibrator](/projects/machines-and-tools/diy-concrete-vibrator)
{% endcontent-ref %}
# General Machine Information
This page exists for facts and links to help with various machining types. Details will be added as resources are found.
## 3D Printers
### Voron
* Coming Soon
### Bambu
* Microswiss FlowTech Hotend () - X1 and P1
* StudioBridge Network Bridge ()
* Make Bambu Lab 3D Printers visible in Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer on other subnets
### Creality
* Microswiss FlowTech Hotend () - K1 / K1 Max / K1C / K1 SE
* Helper Script ()
* This script intended for use on Creality K1 Series and Ender-3 V3 Series printers allows to add more features. K1 Series machines must be rooted to allow for SSH access.
## Lasers
* Laser Tips:
## Routers
* Links and Resources Coming Soon
## Mills
* Links and Resources Coming Soon
## Rotary Bits and Tooling
* End Mill (Square)
* 2-Flute
* 1/8" Bit
* SPEED TIGER 1/8" Carbide 2-Flute ()
* End Mill (Ball)
* OnlineCarbide ()
* End Mill (Extra Long)
* OnlineCarbide (Long Length: / Extra Long Length: )
* Thread Mill
* OnlineCarbide ()
* Compression End Mill
* HQMaster \[Amazon Store] ()
Machine Kits
* West 3D ([https://west3d.com](https://west3d.com/))
Machine Parts
* West 3D ([https://west3d.com](https://west3d.com/))
* LDO Motors ()
* Misumi ()
* RobotDigg ()
# Syil x4 CNC Mill Rebuild
Rebuilding a Syil x4 CNC Mill... but adding some key upgrades to make this a beast of a mill.
Coming Soon!
# Countertop Transport Cart
Cart design used to move, flip and install concrete counter tops
## Hardware and Supplies
* (4x) 8-in pneumatic caster wheels (swivel)
* (10x) 2x4 - 8ft Premium Board
* (6x) 2x6 - 8ft Premium Board
* (16x) 3/8" x 3-in Hex Lag Bolt
* (16x) 3/8" Washer
* (14x) 1/2" x 6-in Hex Bolt
* (28x) 1/2" Washer
* (14x) 1/2" Wing Nut
* 1lb Box of 2.5-in Screws
## Drawings
{% file src="/files/-MGfbiBlzNWwWTnJKJHQ" %}
Assembly Drawing
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/-MGkggq6\_8fHXCTyE\_xh" %}
Cart Base
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/-MGfc-pTNdYhsh5cgZa5" %}
24-in Top
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/-MGfc3x3sLkKV8chmGkj" %}
36-in Top
{% endfile %}
# DIY Concrete Vibrator
Turing an old treadmill motor into a Concrete vibrator
### Turning This...
### Into This...
{% embed url="" %}
Concrete Vibrator made out of treadmill parts
{% endembed %}
# Elegoo SLA Printer USB Network Storage
Sick of the USB thumb drive... make your printer smarter with network mass storage using a Raspberry Pi Zero!
## Supplies
* Raspberry Pi Zero W
* Class 10 Micro SD Card (>= 32Gb)
* Case
* (Qty 2) USB to Micro USB
* [Barrel Whip](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MKJK1CM) (5.5mm x 2.5mm - Male Plug)
* [Barrel Whip](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MKJK1CM) (5.5mm x 2.5mm - Female Plug)
* [USB Buck Converter](https://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Module-6V-32V12V24V-Charging-Converter/dp/B07KWVL77T)
## Setting Up the Pi
This instructional revolves more around setting up a device that can be used as a network mass storage device. I will focus on more of the hardware sides of things and when it comes to setting up the Pi refer you to instructionals I used to make this project possible.
Instructional: [Make a Pi Zero W Smart USB flash drive](https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive)
Instructional: [Headless Pi Zero W Wifi Setup](https://desertbot.io/blog/headless-pi-zero-w-wifi-setup-windows)
### Installing the OS
There are many instructionals online to walk you through setting up your raspberry pi. I use the "[Raspberry Pi Imager](https://www.raspberrypi.com/software/)" with the Raspberry Pi OS Lite image.
Once the SD card has the OS written you will need to enable ssh and configure wifi. Use the resource files below ("ssh" and "wpa\_supplicant.conf") the "[Headless Pi Zero W Wifi Setup](https://desertbot.io/blog/headless-pi-zero-w-wifi-setup-windows)" article to configure these files for your network.
### Post OS Install Pre-rec's
(1) Update apt
```
sudo apt update
```
(2) Install Python3 / PIP (It should already be installed)
```
sudo apt install python3-pip
```
### Configure the Mass Storage
Follow the steps in "[Make a Pi Zero W Smart USB flash drive](https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive)" but there are some tweaks and changes that will be noted here with the steps they pertain to.
#### STEP-01 through STEP-08
Follow the instructions as they are originally written. ("[Make a Pi Zero W Smart USB flash drive](https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive)")
#### STEP-09: Creating a Test file and Slices Directory
Now we are going to create a file and directory that will eventually be visible on the Elegoo printer. The Raspberry Pi Zero W should be plugged into the printer from the designated USB port on the pi and you should have a power supply hooked up to the pi as well. The stock USB port on the Elegoo does not supply enough power to power the pi.
```
sudo touch /mnt/usbshare/hello.world.txt
sudo mkdir /mnt/usbshare/Slices
```
#### STEP-10: Test mass storage device mode
Now comes the moment of truth. Let’s see whether the 3D printer is going to be friends with the Pi Zero W. The command below will enable USB mass storage device mode, and the Elegoo printer should pop up a dialogue box. If it doesn’t, you may need to back out of the menu to the main menu page and get back into the storage.
```
sudo modprobe g_mass_storage file=/piusb.bin stall=0 ro=0 removable=1
```
The printer should provide the file and directory we previously created on the printer screen.
Once you’re satisfied that all is well, try a dismount:
```
sudo modprobe -r g_mass_storage
```
#### STEP-11 through STEP 12
Follow the instructions as they are originally written. ("[Make a Pi Zero W Smart USB flash drive](https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive)")
#### STEP-13
In order for the printer to detect any changes we’ve made over the network (for example, file or folder creations and deletions), it needs to be tricked into thinking that the USB device has been removed and reinserted.
We can use a Python library called watchdog (magpi.cc/2sLL1fi), which is designed for monitoring file system events and responding to them. Install this with the command below:
```
sudo pip3 install watchdog
```
We then need some code to start a timer whenever something changes in the shared folder. The timer is reset to zero every time a new change occurs, and the USB reconnect is only triggered if we see 30 seconds of inactivity after a change. This avoids spamming the printer while we’re copying over multiple files.
The article refers to a program written to do this. To download it, type:
```
sudo wget http://rpf.io/usbzw -O /usr/local/share/usb_share.py
sudo chmod +x /usr/local/share/usb_share.py
```
You will need to go into the usb\_share.py program and modify line 7 to read like the following...
> CMD\_MOUNT = "modprobe g\_mass\_storage file=/piusb.bin stall=0 ro=0 removable=1"
To modify the program, type:
```
sudo nano /usr/local/share/usb_share.py
```
Press CTRL+O followed by Enter to save, and then CTRL+X to quit.
#### STEP-14
Follow the instructions as they are originally written. ("[Make a Pi Zero W Smart USB flash drive](https://magpi.raspberrypi.com/articles/pi-zero-w-smart-usb-flash-drive)")
## Conclusion
Now that you are done you should have a SLA printer that is a little smarter and more convenient to use when it comes to providing your slices to your printer.
## Resources
{% file src="/files/mazScPFeQYwoVNlGU9m4" %}
{% file src="/files/18oC1JhshSfn7gvsBWM9" %}
# Duet3D Pick n Place with Openpnp
Building a Duet3D PnP machine controlled with OpenPnP
Status: Planning the Build!
## References
[Duet3D Openpnp Example Config](https://github.com/openpnp/openpnp/wiki/Duet3D-Openpnp-Example)
[Configuring RepRapFirmware for OpenPnP](https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_OpenPnP)
# Hau Tian RF CO2 Galvo Laser
Hau Tian 40W RF CO2 Galvo Laser, Model: D35, Product Number: SY-AS-G422
This is a **Hao Tian 40W RF CO₂ Galvo Laser**—air-cooled, lightning fast, and running **LightBurn** exclusively. We’ve got this set up in the shop now, and a go-to for engraving projects where speed and clean detail actually matter.
If you're new to galvos, the main difference is how the beam moves—no gantry or belts, just a pair of high-speed mirrors that throw the laser around with insane precision. The 40W RF tube is metal (not glass), so it fires instantly, stays crisp, and doesn’t need constant fiddling. It’s air-cooled too—no chiller, no drama.
This setup shines on wood, acrylic, leather, and plastics. Perfect for marking QR codes, logos, labels, or just batch engraving with a fast turnaround. You’re not cutting through thick materials with it, but for engraving its the machine.
And yeah—running this on **LightBurn**. The interface is clean and no EZCAD headaches.
## Assembly
{% file src="/files/tAn3MxBJJLrhieT6oVcZ" %}
PDF Unboxing and Initial Setup Guide from Manufacturer
{% endfile %}
Assembly Video Coming Soon!
### Calibrating Lenses Using LightBurn
{% embed url="" %}
### Swapping to EZCAM2 Drivers for Lense Calibration
{% embed url="\_" %}
### Calibrating Lenses Using EZCAD2 / CorFile2
{% embed url="" %}
## Downloads
Don't trust that malware or something "fun" isn't on that included USB drive... yeah I don't trust them either. These are the EZCAD markcfg7 configs pulled from the USB for the Galvo lenses. These will be handy when setting up device profiles in LightBurn.
{% file src="/files/vxRWjFLL5lF0qIQKnLim" %}
110mm Field / 149mm Lens markcfg7 file (as marked on the machine)
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/fctno6JKhSA54GpX2Av0" %}
175mm Field / 235mm Lens markcfg7 file (as marked on the machine)
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/yOqqbPzxRJm1oBDmmIFH" %}
210mm Field / 303mm Lens markcfg7 file (as marked on the machine)
{% endfile %}
# Organization
# Ikea Pegboard
IKEA SKÅDIS-Style Pegboard — Cut Your Own (Laser or CNC)
This is a **SKÅDIS-compatible** pattern you can cut on a laser or CNC. Keep reading for **materials that actually behave**, quick fit tips, and a handful of 3D model links so you can kit it out fast.
### Why DIY instead of buying?
* **Make it fit you.** Cabinet doors, cart sides, full stud spans—no weird gaps.
* **Pick your material.** Birch ply for warm shop vibes, acrylic for wipe-clean, HDPE for the messy zones, aluminum/ACM when you want strong sharp look.
* **Finish the way you live.** Spray, wipe-on, paint… or don’t.
* **If you already run a laser/CNC, it’s cheaper at size.**
### Materials & thickness (laser or CNC)
* **Birch ply (3–6 mm / 1⁄8–1⁄4″)** – strong, light, takes screws well. Seal edges (clear or paint) so it doesn’t fuzz.
* **My go-to:** **5.2 mm Sandeply** (actual \~0.205″). IKEA targets \~**5.0 mm**, and 5.2 mm hits that sweet spot of stiff + accessory-friendly. \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/SANDEPLY-5-2mm-Sandeply-Plywood-1-4-in-Category-Common-1-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-205-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-479023/203414042)]
* **MDF (3–6 mm)** – dead-flat and cheap. Seal it—MDF drinks humidity and dust.
* **Cast acrylic (3–6 mm)** – CO₂ cuts look gorgeous; easy to wipe clean at the electronics bench.
* **ACM (3–4 mm)** – super flat, very stiff for the weight. **CNC for cutting** (single-flute/O-flute, shallow DOC, lots of chip evac).
* **Marking:** Fiber/UV will mark the aluminum skins directly. CO₂ can mark painted skins or bare with a ceramic compound. Diode on bare alu = mostly nope.
* Mount with rails/standoffs; the PE core doesn’t love wood screws.
* **HDPE (6–10 mm)** – tanks through wet/dirty areas. **CNC only.** O-flute, big chipload, keep it cool.
* **Aluminum sheet/plate (3–6 mm)** – premium/heavy-duty. Needs a rigid router/mill with mist/flood and proper workholding.
**Safety:** never laser **PVC/vinyl**. MDF dust needs good extraction. Vent acrylic fumes. Eye/ear/PPE when you’re cutting metals.
### Cutting notes
**CO₂ laser**
* Run a **test coupon**. Keep slots nominal; let kerf give you the snug fit.
* Acrylic near wood: multiple faster passes beats one spicy pass.
**CNC router/mill**
* **Wood/MDF:** compression or upcut. Surface your spoilboard first so slots stay square.
* **Plastics:** polished **O-flute**, shallow DOC, lower RPM + higher feed.
* **Aluminum:** single-flute + mist. Add a **0.1 mm** finish pass for dead-consistent slots.
### Fit & tolerance tips
* Printed hooks vary by printer/filament.
* **Too tight?** Tiny chamfer/deburr on the back edge or scale the pattern **+0.1–0.2 mm** XY.
* **Too loose?** Scale **−0.1–0.2 mm** or choose hooks with tighter tabs.
* Tiling multiple boards? Keep the **edge offset** consistent so the staggered pattern lines up across seams.
### Mounting options
* **French cleats** if you like to move walls around (I do).
* **Perimeter frame** stiffens big acrylic panels.
* **Standoffs/rails** when you need cable depth behind electronics.
### Print-able accessories
[Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/search/models?ctx=models\&q=SKADIS)
* Skådis Mount Collections (lots of everyday holders).
* Skådis T-Nuts/locking inserts (great for heavier stuff).
* Filament spool holders, cups, tool hooks—there are tons. Search **“Skådis”** on Printables and you’re off.
### FAQ
**Round-hole pegboard accessories fit?**\
Nope—SKÅDIS is **slots** on a staggered metric grid.
**What thickness should I pick?**\
Wall use: **5–6 mm** ply or acrylic feels premium. Carts/doors: **3–4 mm** + a frame. Heavy tools: thicker or use T-nuts/rails.
**Laser or CNC?**\
Laser = fastest for ply/acrylic with clean edges.\
CNC = HDPE, aluminum, ACM, and when you want countersinks/pockets.
## Documents and Links
{% file src="/files/DrQwnQsenyzAo7Ruqpjf" %}
LightBurn Design File
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/AoA1nmUg3URx4PuxZRVs" %}
{% file src="/files/RW7wKncxqcFHNcRJx6ss" %}
{% file src="/files/sYUea5BLpJaVdgJ9WmL8" %}
{% file src="/files/yfFNCGynwUDUfpmPufKN" %}
MillMage Design File
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/ydB2uYXgfVdUIm0PG80X" %}
LightBurn Design File
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/KTrUBYKA940Fx5MjCmqV" %}
{% file src="/files/BQedl72noTlxCLZpDLXa" %}
{% file src="/files/kvWwyW9lzwmxeqKvMeNL" %}
{% file src="/files/Ly62zyVykkabTNeXP20I" %}
MillMage Design File
{% endfile %}
{% file src="/files/8G3YdH2F9h6lCn4lfNM5" %}
{% file src="/files/X53VD6iIvxuXIG0EuDQh" %}
{% file src="/files/5o5ix3vsmrDkaiWKMFWg" %}
# Home Automation
Coming Soon!
# Casting (Resin and Silicone)
From casting replica's to "print to production" casting. This is the place to be for Resin and Silicone Casting.
## The MalaMaker Casting History
Picked up a hobby during Covid to pass the time or learn something new? ...yup, right there with you. Never would I guess that developing alternative filter layering to find alternatives to N95 mask filter levels ([The MalaMask Project](https://wiki.rivercitylabs.space/covid-19/3d-printed-masks)) would lead me to mold making and silicone / rubber / urethane casting.
### Then...
{% embed url="" %}
### Now\...
It's amazing the things that you can make with resin/rubber casting. From fun to functional to production... this world offers capabilities that I never guessed. Now with the launch of the [Axe handle mold](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399468-axe-handle-casting-mold) it prompted me to launching [maker86 Industries](https://maker86.com/). A dream I have had to take me and my hobbies and ambitions and turn them into something I can offer others.
                 
## Projects...
{% content-ref url="/pages/u0T87aUIv61Ut22XhY3H" %}
[Recasting Rubber Axe Handles](/projects/casting-resin-and-silicone/recasting-rubber-axe-handles)
{% endcontent-ref %}
{% content-ref url="/pages/U0ZR60qcj7hCrx1ij1nf" %}
[Stage Pouring a Mold](/projects/casting-resin-and-silicone/stage-pouring-a-mold)
{% endcontent-ref %}
# Recasting Rubber Axe Handles
This is a detailed instructional on how to recast "Estwing" 16" Camper Axe rubber handles using our Axe Handle Recasting Molds.
{% embed url="" %}
How-To Video on the steps for recasting the rubber axe handle
{% endembed %}
Looking to repair or embed your company name into the rubber handle of your steel tanged throwing axe. The Axe Handle Casting Mold by maker86 Industries is a great way to recast the rubber handle on your steel tang axe. This solution offers a cost effective way for Axe Throwing venues to recast certain steel tang axe handles and give the axe a 2nd, 3rd, 4th... life.
Worried about casting a new handle? This will walk you through the tools/casting supplies you need, how to prepare your axe, preparing the mold, and cast a new axe handle are all available to make your axe handle casting experience seamless.
#### **Note:** All tools, activities and actions displayed or represented on this site are done at your own risk **and the Author cannot be held liable for any damages.**
We have no affiliation with "Estwing" / "WATL" or any of their products. A need was identified in an industry that uses their products and all of the designs that have come out of this project were organically derived. This is simply enabling users to repair the products they own and give it a second life.
## Mold Types
### Low Contrast Mold
This is a FDM 3D printed ABS mold, printed at a standard layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle. Layer lines will be visible in the cast, text is readable, and dimples will show print resolution limitations. This is a suitable mold for functional use of the axe. **NOTE**: this option does not allow for a customized logo plate, to put your custom logo into the mold. You will need the High Resolution Mold with the ["Axe Handle Cast Logo/Branding Plate"](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399513-axe-handle-cast-logo-branding-plate) found on the [maker86 Industries store](https://maker86.com/shop).
### High Contrast Mold
This is a FDM 3D Printed ABS shell mold with an 4 piece SLA resin printed sleeve (interior mold). FDM printing is printed at a standard layer height with a 0.4mm nozzle. SLA resin printing is printed at a layer height at or under 50 microns. The resin core will give you a near perfect result on all contact surfaces. You can order custom branding plates to be included in this mold. Custom logo/branding plates can be found in the [maker86 Industries store](https://maker86.com/shop), listing ["Axe Handle Cast Logo/Branding Plate"](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399513-axe-handle-cast-logo-branding-plate).
### Samples - Contrast and Materials
If you are unsure what molds would be best for you or you want a sample of the two urethane rubbers hardness's. A sample set of handles can be found on the maker86 store (["Axe Handle Casting Samples"](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399465-axe-handle-casting-samples)). The purchase will provide you with with 2 sample handles (Low and High Resolution) that have a core that simulates the metal tang that runs down the handle. The low resolution sample is casted in Smooth-On Vytaflex 50 - 50A hardness urethane rubber and the high resolution sample is casted in Smooth-On Vytaflex 60 - 60A hardness urethane rubber. Substitutions are available for the KX-Flex 90A semi-rigid urethane.
## Safety
The following processes use tools and supplies that can create various hazards. Please take the proper precautions for the processes used in this article. Stripping the axe uses blades and spinning machinery to clear the existing handle materials. Mold Releases an Urethane Rubbers create odors, vapors, and aerosols, please read precautions with the various products. Cut resistant coverings, reducing loose clothing, ventilation, and respirators are all things to consider as these processes are executed.
#### BE SAFE!!!!
## Tools and Supplies
As we guide you through the process of recasting your axe, below you will find the molds, supplies, tools, and where to find the products for the prep, pour and post processing of the casting.
### Molds and Mold Accessories
[maker86 Industries Shop](https://maker86.com/shop) (Axe Throwing)
* [ ] [Axe Handle Casting Mold Kit](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399468-axe-handle-casting-mold)
* [ ] Axe Handle Mount (Molds come with a axe handle mount)
* [ ] (Optional) [Axe Handle Casting Samples](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399465-axe-handle-casting-samples)
* [ ] (Optional) [Axe Handle Cast Logo/Branding Plate](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399513-axe-handle-cast-logo-branding-plate)
* [ ] (Optional) [Axe Handle Casting Mold Spacers](https://maker86.com/shop/ols/products/286399510-axe-handle-casting-mold-spacers) (Molds come with 30 spacers)
* [ ] (Optional) Mold Clamping Plates (Mold options available with clamping plates)
* [ ] (Qty 10) M8 x 55mm Button Head Cap Screws (Included with mold purchase)
* [ ] (Qty 10) M8 Washers (Included with mold purchase)
* [ ] (Qty 10) M8 Wing Nuts (Included with mold purchase)
* [ ] (Qty 1) 3mm Allen Wrench (Included with mold purchase)
### Supplies
* [ ] Soft Non-Hardening Clay ([Sculptex®](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/sculptex/) at Reynolds / [Sculptex®](https://www.benam.co.uk/products/clay/sculptex-200) at Bentley)
* [ ] Mold Release ([Ease Release 200](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/ease-release-200/) at Reynolds / [Ease Release 200](https://www.benam.co.uk/products/releases-sealers/release-agents-for-mouldmaking-and-casting/ease-release-200) at Bentley)
* [ ] Smooth-On 60A or 90A Hardness Urethane Rubber \[220 grams / mold]
* [ ] Vytaflex 60 ([Smooth-On](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/vytaflex/) / [Reynolds](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/vytaflex-series/) / [Bentley](https://www.benam.co.uk/products/urethane/vytaflex)) is roughly an equal in hardness to the original foam rubber used on the Estwing handles.
* [ ] KX-Flex 90A ([Smooth-On](https://www.smooth-on.com/products/kx-flex-90/) / [Reynolds ](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/kxflex/)/ [Bentley](https://www.benam.co.uk/kx-flex-90)) is a semi-rigid urethane. This is the resin to use, if you are looking for a more durable handle to hold up better to the abuse of axe throwing. Molds are not guaranteed above 60A hardness but the mold appears to hold up with multiple pours of this resin. Triple check with every pour you have mold release adequately covering the inside of the mold. [***Requires 2 part stage pouring.***](/projects/casting-resin-and-silicone/stage-pouring-a-mold)
* [ ] (Optional) Smooth-On SO-String Color Tints (Smooth-On / [Reynolds ](https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/strong-color-tints/)/ [Bentley](https://www.benam.co.uk/so-strong))\
\- See '[Color Chart](#color-chart)' below.
* [ ] (Qty 2) 5oz cup ("dixie")
* [ ] 12oz or [24oz](https://www.webstaurantstore.com/carnival-king-24-oz-popcorn-cup-pack/999V24.html) cup\
\- Larger cup is needed if you plan to degas the rubber before pouring.
* [ ] Stir Stick
* [ ] Isopropyl Alcohol (>90%)
* [ ] Paper Towels
* [ ] Disposable Gloves
### Tools
* [ ] Digital Gram Scale
* [ ] 5mm or 6mm Allen Wrench
* [ ] Putty Knife
* [ ] Utility Knife w/ new blade! (Trust me... new blade)
* [ ] Wire Brush and/or Wire Wheel
* [ ] [Flush Cutters (side cutters)](https://smile.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K)
* [ ] Cut Resistant Gloves
* [ ] Respirator Mask
## Stripping the Axe
There really isn't a science to this process as you really are going to use a utility knife to strip the existing rubber from the handle. Remember all your your safety techniques and wear cut resistant gloves to not get hurt while removing the rubber.
{% embed url="" %}
### Removing the Bulk
The easiest way to start is to use the utility knife and strike deep in the rubber along letting the blade rub against the side of the tang. See image below.
Once you have scored the rubber now is when its just brute force to peeling the rubber off the handle, periodically scoring the rubber and cutting off pieces where it seems fit. The goal is to have a majority of the rubber cut and peeled off. See image below.
### Cleaning the remaining
At this point it is up to you how much cleaner you want the tang to be of the existing rubber. I typically wire brush the shoulder of the neck where it meets the handle to have a clean area where the steel transitions to handle. The biggest focus with this step is clearing off any loose rubber from the tang.
## Preparing the Mold
In this section of the casting process you will be applying mold release, assembling the mold to the axe and then applying mold release again.
{% embed url="" %}
### Spray it all down
***\*\*\* You can ruin a mold if you do not apply enough mold release especially with anything greater than 60A hardness. \*\*\****
For this process you are going to want to put on disposable gloves and a respirator mask. The rule of thumb for applying mold release is anywhere you do not want the rubber to stick you are going to want to spray with mold release BUT before you go crazy spraying things there are an order to things so the right things get mold release applied and other things that shouldn't don't. ***Be generous with the mold release***.
Spray The Following things...
* [ ] Inside of both halves of the mold, pour spouts, inside face, vent lines.
* [ ] 3mm Allen Wrench
### Putting the Mold Together
Now we assemble the mold. One thing to note, the 3mm allen wrench is used as a locator pin that is easier to remove during demolding, it has no functional purpose beyond that
(1) Place the 3mm Allen Wrench (longer side of the allen wrench) through the small hole in the clamping plate and then with one half of the mold thread the small hole over the allen wrench. Make sure you match the profiles of the plate with the mold half. If you do not the clamping plate, place the 3mm Allen Wrench (longer side of the allen wrench) through the small hole in the back of one half of the mold.
(2) On the inside of the mold with the allen wrench poking through, thread a spacer over the allen wrench.
(3) With the half of the mold that has the allen wrench and spacer, lay it flat on the table. Place the axe into the mold, locating the hole in the tang over the space. Then press the neck of the axe into the mold, understand this will be a tight fit and might cause grooves in the mold... this is normal.
(4) Take the second half of the mold and place it over the mold and axe that was set up in steps 1 through 3.
(5) Holding the two halves together as best you can, push the M8 Cap Screw Bolt through the mold/plate holes.
(6) If you have the clamping plates, place the other clamping plate over the bolt.
(7) Apply a washer and wing nut over the bolt and hand tighten.
(8) Repeat step 7 and 9 for each remaining bolt hole in the mold.
(9) Alternate tightening each bolt and progressively tighten down the mold, the goal is to apply even pressure as you tighten the mold down. Be careful to not over tighten. If you do use a cordless driver... **Be careful**... this is a tool I use to speed up the casting process but you can easily apply excess torque quickly and deform/damage molds.
(10) Place soft clay around the neck of the mold, pressing the clay into the axe neck and the mold to create a seal so the mold does not leak.
(11) Place the axe head into the axe mount to position the axe in a vertical orientation.
(12) Take some extra clay and a small cup and position the cup using the clay under the side of the mold that has the vent holes to catch any drips that will come out of the vent holes.
### Spraying it down again
We now need to spray down the areas of the mold, axe and stand that if rubber leaks or drips on any of these surfaces it is easy to remove. This list can be adjusted as you become more proficient at the casting process but if this is your first time, spray everything on the list below.
Spray The Following things...
* [ ] Exterior of the mold, all sides.
* [ ] Axe neck, head and mount.
## Pouring the Handle
During this part of the process make sure you have adequate ventilation, disposable gloves and a respirator. Safety first! This will take you through prepping your parts, applying color, mixing and pouring your mold. Read your instruction and read through this section before you start dispensing anything.
{% embed url="" %}
{% embed url="" %}
Stage Pouring A Mold (KX-Flex 90)
{% endembed %}
### Color Chart
Coloring your urethane rubber is more art than science and single drops of SO-Strong color tint go a LONG way! Naturally the rubber is yellow in color. If you order from any of the sites listed in the [supplies section](#supplies) of this article, ask for a sample of the Vytaflex 50 or 60 rubber you want and they typically will send a poker chip size sample of the cured product. If you are figuring out the right mix of color, I recommend getting the Smooth-On 0.2oz SO-Strong Color Tint Set with 9 colors and to help dispense the colors get 1 Ounce Needle Tip Glue Bottles to transfer each color into. If you are looking for a color that is more UV stable substitute SO-Strong tints with [Smooth-On UVO color tints](https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/uvo/).
A color chart is currently being put together to help you navigate tinting your rubber... Color Chart Coming Soon!
### Measure Your Materials
Prior to measuring any materials please read the instructions included by Smooth-On. The Vytaflex Urethane Rubber is a 1:1 ratio by volume but you will need a total of 200 grams (0.45 lbs). Before pouring any materials, mix the materials in their bottles. DO NOT CROSS CONTAMINATE WHAT IS IN YOUR BOTTLES. By contaminating what you don't intend to mix will ruin the parts for future use. Once the Part A and Part B are combined the clock starts ticking to get it poured!
1. Mark your two smaller 5oz cups with an "A" and a "B". Each cup getting a single letter. This is to help you know which is Part A and Part B.
2. Grab your gram scale and place two smaller 5oz cups on the scale and zero it out.
3. Using the first 5oz cup, pour 95 grams of Vytaflex Part A into the cup.
4. Using the second 5oz cup, pour 95 grams of Vytaflex Part B into the cup.
5. Next you will need to add small amounts of Part A and Part B into their respective cups to even out the volume. Once you have equal volumes you are done pouring the parts.
6. Put the appropriate amount of color tint drops into **Part B** and mix thoroughly with a stir stick until the color is consistent. Making sure as you mix you are scraping the sides and the bottom.
### Mixing and Degassing
Lets first talk about degassing. Degassing or vacuuming out the bubbles of the urethane rubber is not necessary for the Vytaflex rubber as it is designed to reduce the bubbles naturally as it cures. If you do degas the urethane rubber it will reduce even the small bubbles that might appear in the butt of the axe handle. So if you have the equipment do the degassing of the bubbles but if you don't no need to worry.
### Mixing the parts together
***Always be aware of your time*** when mixing resins, silicones, rubbers and urethanes. The Vytaflex Rubber has a pot life of 60 minutes and a cure time of 16 hours. What that means is you have 60 minutes to mix, degas and pour your mold. Then 16 hours for the urethane rubber to fully cure.
Taking the parts poured earlier, pour both parts into the larger cup, scraping the sides and bottom of each smaller cup. Then start stirring the parts together, making sure you scrape the sides and bottom of the cup to get a thorough mix. Now your Urethane Rubber is ready to pour
### The Pour
There is not a lot that goes into the pour but there are a few things to remember.
(1) Pour a consistent thin stream of Urethane Rubber as you pour.
(2) Elevate your pour 8-9 inches over the mold and create a thin stream of rubber to stretch and break the bubbles as you pour into the spout on your mold.
(3) Scraping the cup when you are done pouring into the mold spout is okay to do.
## The Reveal and Cleanup
This is the exciting part!!!! You get to see the fruits of your labor. The first time I poured an axe handle, I couldn't sleep... It was like waiting for Santa to deliver presents on Christmas eve as a kid.
Lets get started!
{% embed url="" %}
### Demolding
Remove the bolts. As you remove the bolts you will notice the mold starting to split. When the bolts are removed try to split the mold by hand. DO NOT USE THE POUR SPOUT AS LEVERAGE, you could damage the mold. Remember using the mold release during the "[Preparing the Mold](#preparing-the-mold)" step, this is where that step pays off. If the mold will not split by hand, use a putty knife between the halves and gently pry the mold apart.
### Cleanup
#### Pour Spout and Vent Holes
Using a pair of [flush cutters (side cutters)](https://smile.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K), cut the vent lines and pour spout flush with the handle. That's it.
#### Trimming the Flashing
There is never a good way to trim rubber flashing with retail products that I have found, so I usually resort to using the exacto knife. Some molds I have been able to use my fingernail or in some cases the flush cutters.
### The Result
  
## Resources and Shout-outs
Reynolds Advanced Materials ([Website ](https://www.reynoldsam.com/)/ [Twitter](https://twitter.com/RAMaterials)) - Smooth-On Distributor and Materials Consulting. [#RAMaterials](https://twitter.com/search?q=%23RAMaterials\&src=hashtag_click)
Green Gate 3D ([Website ](https://greengate3d.com/)/ [Twitter](https://twitter.com/GreenGate3D)) - Filament (PETG) - Thank you for your filament donation to the project at [#MRRF2021](https://twitter.com/search?q=%23mrrf2021)!
IC3D ([Website](https://www.ic3dprinters.com/) / [Twitter](https://twitter.com/IC3D_Printers)) - Filament (ABS)
Fulament ([Website ](https://fulament.com/)/ [Twitter](https://twitter.com/fulament)) - SLA Resin
Smooth-On ([Website ](https://www.smooth-on.com/)/ [Twitter](https://twitter.com/SmoothOn)) - Mold making and Casting manufacturer. [#smoothon](https://twitter.com/search?q=%23smoothon\&src=hashtag_click)
### Media Links
* [Photo Album](https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fhkb9WzwK1U4uTpe7)
## Disclaimers
LIABILITY DISCLAIMER. THE INFORMATION, SOFTWARE, PRODUCTS, AND SERVICES INCLUDED IN OR AVAILABLE THROUGH THE SITE MAY INCLUDE INACCURACIES OR TYPOGRAPHICAL ERRORS. CHANGES ARE PERIODICALLY ADDED TO THE INFORMATION HEREIN. MALAMAKER.ORG (JOSHUA MALAVOLTI) (MALAMAKERUS) (MALAMAKER86) (MALAMAKER) AND/OR ITS SUPPLIERS MAY MAKE IMPROVEMENTS AND/OR CHANGES IN THE SITE AT ANY TIME. MALAMAKER.ORG (JOSHUA MALAVOLTI) (MALAMAKERUS) (MALAMAKER86) (MALAMAKER) AND/OR ITS SUPPLIERS MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS ABOUT THE SUITABILITY, RELIABILITY, AVAILABILITY, TIMELINESS, AND ACCURACY OF THE INFORMATION, SOFTWARE, PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND RELATED GRAPHICS CONTAINED ON THE SITE FOR ANY PURPOSE. TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, ALL SUCH INFORMATION, SOFTWARE, PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND RELATED GRAPHICS ARE PROVIDED "AS IS" WITHOUT WARRANTY OR CONDITION OF ANY KIND. MALAMAKER.ORG (JOSHUA MALAVOLTI) (MALAMAKERUS) (MALAMAKER86) (MALAMAKER) AND/OR ITS SUPPLIERS HEREBY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES AND CONDITIONS WITH REGARD TO THIS INFORMATION, SOFTWARE, PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND RELATED GRAPHICS, INCLUDING ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES OR CONDITIONS OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, TITLE AND NON-INFRINGEMENT. TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, IN NO EVENT SHALL MALAMAKER.ORG (JOSHUA MALAVOLTI) (MALAMAKERUS) (MALAMAKER86) (MALAMAKER) AND/OR ITS SUPPLIERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES OR ANY DAMAGES WHATSOEVER INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF USE, DATA OR PROFITS, ARISING OUT OF OR IN ANY WAY CONNECTED WITH THE USE OR PERFORMANCE OF THE SITE, WITH THE DELAY OR INABILITY TO USE THE SITE OR RELATED SERVICES, THE PROVISION OF OR FAILURE TO PROVIDE SERVICES, OR FOR ANY INFORMATION, SOFTWARE, PRODUCTS, SERVICES AND RELATED GRAPHICS OBTAINED THROUGH THE SITE, OR OTHERWISE ARISING OUT OF THE USE OF THE SITE, WHETHER BASED ON CONTRACT, TORT, NEGLIGENCE, STRICT LIABILITY OR OTHERWISE, EVEN IF MALAMAKER.ORG (JOSHUA MALAVOLTI) (MALAMAKERUS) (MALAMAKER86) (MALAMAKER) OR ANY OF ITS SUPPLIERS HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF DAMAGES. BECAUSE SOME STATES/JURISDICTIONS DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF LIABILITY FOR CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. IF YOU ARE DISSATISFIED WITH ANY PORTION OF THE SITE, OR WITH ANY OF THESE TERMS OF USE, YOUR SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDY IS TO DISCONTINUE USING THE SITE. ([Citation](https://www.lawinsider.com/clause/liability-disclaimer))
# Stage Pouring a Mold
Have a Silicone, Rubber or Urethane with a short pot life. This will show you how to stage pour a mold to extend that pot life and still get a great result.
{% embed url="" %}
# Concrete Countertops
A full How-To on building concrete countertops
This project was one that I had been waiting on for 10 years to do. The house my wife and I were in, having concrete countertops, really didn't fit the look of the house. What you will find here is the final executed approach I took to make beautiful countertops and vanity top. ...And if you choose to DIY you will find that the cost is around that of a standard Formica top... even with buying the tools needed to build it.
There is a lot of details that go into making concrete countertops. This document is organized in a way to take you through the correct order of planning and building your masterpiece. ***(This page is in process of being built, we will remove this message when complete. Document is complete through "Install" and is currently being proof read.)***
#### Skill Level: Moderate (Woodworking)
**Photo Album:**
## Planning The Build
### Tools Needed
* Tape Measure
* Circular Saw
* Drill
* Impact Driver
* Countersink Drill bit set
* Fine point sharpie
* Utility Knife
* Scraper Blade
* Putty Knife
* Speed Square (12-in recommended)
* (3x-5x) Saw Horses (With 2x4 inserts for cross beaming) \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/TOUGHBUILT-42-4-in-W-x-28-8-in-H-Steel-Sawhorse-and-Jobsite-Table-1100-lb-Capacity-TB-C550/205870368?storeSelection=6987,1978,1984,1977,1967) / [Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tool-accessories/tool-stands-saw-horses/masterforce-reg-folding-steel-sawhorse/65067/p-1444436621888-c-1496857146263.htm)]
* Make sure the saw horses you buy can handle the weight
* Orbital Polisher with Wet/Dry Shroud, 4in to 5in Velcro Backer Pad and water pump
* Harbor Freight Drill Master 7 In. 10 Amp Variable Speed Polisher (I prefer one that is more replaceable since water is going to be involved with the use of this tool) \[[Link](https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html)]
* Wet / Dry Shroud for Drill Master 7 In. Polisher \[[3D Model](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/wet-dry-polishing-shroud-for-harbor-freight-drill-master-7in-polisher) / Purchase]
* Velcro Backer Pad \[[4in](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BPCX8HJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1\&pd_rd_i=B07BPCX8HJ) / [5in](https://smile.amazon.com/Stadea-Rubber-Backer-Backing-Arbor/dp/B004MK76HE)]
* Small USB water pump \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/Driew-3-5-9V-Submersible-Brushless-Waterproof/dp/B01CG2YE6K)]
* 5/16" Vinyl Tubing \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/Sealproof-Unreinforced-Tubing-16-Inch-American/dp/B07G9YY7GT)]
* Orbital Sander w/ Shop Vac hookup
* Shop Vac w/ bag (The bag is important as you will be collecting fine dust)
* Table Shaker (Concrete Vibrator) \[[DIY](/projects/machines-and-tools/diy-concrete-vibrator) / [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q7YS6D/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B076Q68HSW)]
* Caulking Tool, Metal Ball \[[Link](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/products/concrete-countertop-caulking-tool-metal-ball)]
* (8x-12x) 5 Gallon Buckets (1 clean water bucket, 1 dirty water bucket, rest are for cement prep which is explained later in this page)
* 10lb digital scale with OZ option measurements (Typically these are kitchen scales)
* Flour Sifter (Rotary Hand Crank Style) \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WWD6FX)]
* Optional (But Highly Recommended)
* Cement Mixer ([Up to 95lbs](https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-4-quarter-cubic-ft-compact-cement-mixer-91907.html), [Up to 190lbs](https://www.harborfreight.com/3-1-2-half-cubic-ft-cement-mixer-67536.html))
* [Count Top Transport Cart](/projects/machines-and-tools/conter-top-transport-cart)
### Supplies Needed
* Concrete Mix (Details See "Picking Your Concrete")
* Base concrete mix or separate components
* Portland (Depending on desired look and color there are 2 different color options for Portland)
* Grey Portland \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/94-lb-Portland-Cement-112494/100570364) / [Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/bagged-concrete-cement-mortar/portland-cement-type-i-92-6-94-lb/1891153/p-1502193149245-c-5648.htm)]
* White Portland \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/TXI-92-5-lb-Type-I-White-Portland-Cement-Concrete-Mix-4613/202080973) / [Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/bagged-concrete-cement-mortar/white-portland-cement-type-i-92-6-lb/100371/p-1502260226866-c-5648.htm)] (This is typically special order at most places)
* Plasticizer \[[Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/products/gfrc-super-plasticizer-water-reducer-sp-7000)]
* Chopped Fiberglass \[[Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/concrete-mixes-additives-admixes)]
* Aggregate
* Sand (If you are looking for a light color, silica pool sand is a good choice)
* (2x-4x) 2x4x8 Premium Board (Straighter = flatter countertop)
* (2x) 3/4" MDF 4x8-ft Sheet
* Melamine 4-ft x 8-ft Sheet (Qty depends on how many surfaces/size you will be creating)
* 1/2" Sheet \[[Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/prefinished-panels/dakota-trade-1-2-x-49-x-97-melamine-panel/mel1249white/p-1444428239230-c-13335.htm)]
* 1/4" Sheet \[[Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/prefinished-panels/dakota-trade-1-4-x-49-x-97-melamine-panel/mel1449pbwhite/p-1444428246997-c-13335.htm)]
* 1/8" Sheet \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Eucalyptus-White-Hardboard-447562/204727075)]
* 3/4" Melamine Bull-nose Shelving (Qty depends on how many surfaces/size you will be creating)
* Blue Painters Tape
* Vinyl Tape (Width >= Thickness of the countertop)
* DAP Black Silicone
* Paste Wax
* Paper Towels
* Screws for Edging - Vertical (Length = Countertop thickness + 1/2")
* Screws for Edging - Horizontal (1-1/2")
* Composite Shims
* Sandpaper for Orbital Sander (100 grit)
* Foam Sanding Pad (100 grit)
* Wet/Dry Diamond Polishing Pad Set (4"-5" -- 50 grit to 3000 grit set)
* Diamond Hand Polishing Pads Foam Back \[[Amazon](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YD4WFF)]
* Countertop Concrete Sealer (Food Safe) \[[Expressions-LTD Sealers](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/countertop-sealer)]
* Food Safe Wax \[[Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/products/concrete-countertop-fda-beeswax)]
* 2-in Extruded Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation (Sink Cutout Areas)
* Optional
* Sink Mounting Hardware (See "Mounting Sinks" section under "Planning the Build" for hardware options)
* Edge Molds \[[Expressions-LTD Edge Liners](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/edge-form-liners)]
* Other Molds (Soap, Drain Boards, etc) \[Expressions-LTD [Other Molds](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/other-molds) / [Drain Boards](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/drainboard-molds)]
* Color Additives
* (White Based - 3lb Samples)
* (Pigment Samples)
* Specialty Aggregate
* (Crushed Glass)
* (Crushed Granite)
* Mounting hardware \[[Link](https://originalgranitebracket.com/)]
### Picking Your Concrete
Basic Rule of Thumb when making concrete countertops... **Do test runs and practice pieces!**\
\
No two concrete mixes or brands are the same and have the same look. This is why it is important to pick your concrete before you start pouring your countertops. With countertops you are striving for a higher PSI concrete but that doesn't mean you have to buy the concrete that is rated at a higher PSI, the mixture that I will include in this post will include a pre-mix concrete with the additions to the mix that will make it more to the grade you are seeking.
Some Concrete Pre-Mixes I have tried and feedback...
* Quickcrete 110180 (80lb) Concrete Mix
* This concrete is very consistent bag to bag. It has a Medium grey tone naturally with a normal amount of small aggregate. You pay a little more per bag but you are paying for quality and consistency.
* Handi-crete 80lb Concrete Mix
* This concrete is made by the Quickcrete company but it is not the same consistency as your standard Quickcrete. Over about 40 bags of this stuff I have seen 2 bags of just sand and aggregate (5% failure rate). This concrete is cheap per bag but you may run into a bad bag here and there. Now this is the concrete I used for my kitchen countertops and they are beautiful and were completed March 2019.
* Mastercraft 60lb Concrete Mix ([Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/bagged-concrete-cement-mortar/concrete-mix-60-lb/1891030/p-1444441405889-c-5648.htm))
* This concrete is a similar story to the Handi-crete. Consistency isn't 100% but usable. Example... Just helped a neighbor pour a concrete pad behind their house with this stuff and it looks like a semi-professional concrete professional did it. (Kinda) Aka... it does the job just pay attention when mixing a bag.
* Mastercraft 60lb 5000psi Concrete Mix ([Menards](https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/bagged-concrete-cement-mortar/5000-psi-concrete-mix-60-lb/1891015/p-1444441404928-c-5648.htm))
* This stuff was a bit of a surprise. So much so that I almost scrapped all the other pieces I had already poured to re-pour in with this stuff and I was 75% done with the kitchen tops. This stuff has a really neat color naturally. It is a deep grey with a hint of blue. Consistency was good with the 5 bags I used. With doing a test run if you are looking for a darker look and don't want to use pigments.
* Mix your own concrete
* If you want to guaranteed quality and consistency then this is your only true option. This will add a little more measuring to your prep work but it will get you good consistent results. See "The DIY Mix" below for the mix I used on the bathroom vanity. And oh BTW you might want to get a higher capacity scale. :nerd:
## Setting up your pour table
Rule of thumb... the flatter the table, the flatter your countertops will be. Keep in mind too the amount of weight that this table will be holding so do not cheap out on the saw horse you use. This is my recommendation for a 4-ft x 8-ft pour table.
1. Take 3 saw horses and space them out about 3.5-ft apart.
2. Place two 2 x 4 x 8-ft boards in the board slots between the 3 saw horses
3. Place a 3/4-in x 4ft x 8ft MDF board on the saw horses and 2x4's
4. Secure down with wood screws the MDF Board to the 2x4's
5. Place a second 3/4-in x 4ft x 8ft MDF board on the first MDF board.
6. Secure down with wood screws the second MDF board to the first MDF board with just 4 screws, 1 screw in each of the 4 corners
Once the table is setup, this will be the base that you will place the melamine sheet on top of and build your mold on top of the melamine sheet.
*Note: The melamine is something that concrete will not attach to and will create a very smooth surface.*
### Leveling The Table
Remember that concrete is a fluid material and when you pour countertops the mixture tends to be wetter than if you were pouring a floor or sidewalk. With that leveling the table will help in things spreading equally and at a consistent thickness naturally.
### Shaking The Table
To help work out the bubbles vibrating the table is the key, otherwise you could get large number of air bubbles on the downward surface which will eventually be the top. I have included a link in the tools section of this document for a purchased table vibrator. (***Do this at your own risk)*** One DIY way you can make a table shaker is with an old treadmill motor. The nice thing with treadmills are the motor controller system is variable. Meaning you can control the speed of the motor. One additional thing to add is a weight on one side of the motor to put the motor out of balance creating the vibration when it turns. ***PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE be careful, you can tear apart the table and mount by doing this and increasing the speed too high.***
## Planning the Build
**PLAN YOUR BUILD!!!!!!** It is best to draw out your countertops and measurements. Don't just make a mold blindly. I'm a huge Fusion 360 user so if you have the skills with a parametric design software, drawing up countertops are easy. If you don't have these skills, grab a piece of paper, a ruler, and pencil and draw things out.
{% file src="/files/-MGd16NC72y2OAmMdAq4" %}
Example of Countertop Drawings
{% endfile %}
### Standard Measurements, Dimensions, and Placement
**Vanity Top Depth:** 22-in\
**Kitchen Countertop Depth:** 25.5-in\
**Back-splash Depth:** 1-in\
**Sink:** Sinks come in all shapes and sizes, pick out your sink and typically they come with cutout dimensions regardless if they are an under mount or top mount sink.\
**Kitchen Sink Faucet Placement:** From back of countertop... 2.75-in (It really depends on the sink you choose as the correct placement and with some sinks they will tell you where to place the faucet in relation to the sink)\
**Vanity Faucet Placement:** From back of sink opening... 3-in (It really depends on the sink you choose as the correct placement and with some sinks they will tell you where to place the faucet in relation to the sink)
### Mounting Sinks
This is always a creative part of the build for under mount or farm sinks. If you can build a frame in the cabinet for the sink to sit on, this is the most reliable means for mounting a sink. Other ways are using [epoxy clips](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YO4TNME) or [cabinet mount clips](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1HKYMW). Just make sure you figure this out before you start pouring sink molds. I thought of clips after the fact and I had to do in place mods which is never fun, easy, or convenient.
### Molds
Molds can give some added character and functionality to any countertop. From Edge Molds to Soap Molds to Drying Boards. Molds come with a price though. If you are doing this professionally mold costs can be spread out over many tops. Visit [Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/concrete-molds-and-forms) for a site that has a good selection of molds.
### The Edge Look
When it comes to edge molds, remember to account for edge mold added dimension when designing your molds. Visit [Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/edge-form-liners) for a site that has a good selection of edge molds. If you want a square edge with a rounded corner this can be done with just the edge of the mold, silicone, and a metal ball caulking tool. This will be addressed later but worth noting here so you plan for the right look. Using a square edge with a rounded corner adds no extra cost to the build.
## Prepping the Mold
Remember that **you are pouring the countertop up-side-down**. So what is left is right when setting up the mold... sink fixtures, corners, etc are flipped.
### Cutting and Securing the Edges
**Cutting the Edge Strips:** If you were wondering why you were buying bull-nose melamine shelving, well you are gong to cut this into strips at the thickness of the countertop you are wanting to pour. Use a table saw or circular saw to cut your edges.
**Marking the Mold:** Marking your surface before you start setting your edges is highly recommended! Using a fine point sharpie, mark out the melamine sheet and where your edges will be placed. Make sure your measurements and angles are square, the last thing you want is a countertop that isn't square.
**Securing your Edges:** There are a couple rules to live by when setting your edges.... 1. Set one edge first and then work from that 1 secured edge. 2. Double check you are square, edges are straight, and your dimensions are correct as you secure things. 3. Pre-drill and countersink all your holes so the screw head sits below the surface of the top edge. 4. Connect the boards at the corners so the entire mold is tied together.
### Cutouts, Sinks, and Faucets
This is going to be the most challenging part of the mold making process depending on the tools you have available... specifically sinks and cutout with inside rounded corners. Personally I have a 3D Printer and a CNC router which gave me some options for this category.
**Sinks and Cutouts:** If you are doing this by hand or have a CNC router, cutting the sink opening in extruded polystyrene foam would be the easiest solution. If you have a 3D Printer the [models for the inside corners are posted for download](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/concrete-counter-top-mold-inside-corners). Once you have cutouts / sink edges set, wrap the area (edges) that will make contact with the concrete with Vinyl Tape. *(3D Printed corners)* The vinyl tape will help smooth the surface between the printed part and the melamine. *(Foam)* The vinyl tape will help smooth the surface and seal off the foam where it would contact the concrete.
**Faucets:** Faucet biggest challenge is proper placement because there really isn't a hard and fast rule on where a faucet needs to be placed. Once you have picked a place for your faucet to be then you need to place your plug. Plugs typically are made out of silicone and you can [buy them at Expressions-LTD](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/other-molds). If you are like me and have a 3D printer you can [print plugs that I have designed and are pictured below](https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/concrete-conter-top-mold-faucet-plugs).
### Edge Molds and Molds in General
This category of prepping the mold is pretty easy... To attach any molds to the form use silicone on the back of mold and press against the surface of the mold you wish it to be placed. Just make sure you clean any silicone up that may protrude on a surface that might create a flaw in the surface of the concrete.
### Sealing the mold
Before you seal the countertop mold you will want to make sure that any edge molds and/or misc molds used are secure... aka the silicone used to secure them has solidified.
Sealing the mold is necessary regardless if you want a rounded edge or not. You are welcome to pour without sealing (Water proofing) your mold but I wouldn't do it. All the work up to this point is worth the extra step of sealing the mold.
**Step 1: Waxing your Mold**
Now this one took me a while to figure out. All the videos I watched and sites I visited never really emphasized this step or they said to do it but never were specific as to what really to use. And after pealing off gobs of silicone stuck to the surface of the melamine using a putty knife and scraper knife. I caught a video of ["This Old House"](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TG0F7Qe4MzM) which has a couple second blip that showed the can... it happened to be SC Johnson Paste Wax. This is the magic that makes silicon-ing the edges of the mold so much easier when cleaning up.
Taking a rag wipe down the inside of the mold with Paste Wax everywhere silicone will be applied to an edge or where the silicone might spill over.
**Step 2: Sealing the Mold**
Using the black silicone, run the silicone around all the sharp edges in the mold and potentially at the base of any edge molds that require a finish rounded edge.
**Step 3: Finishing the Silicone**
Using the Metal Ball Caulk tool (Whatever ball diameter you desire), run the ball over the silicone you laid in "Step 2". The excess silicone will spill over the sides of where you run the tool. This is normal, we will clean it up later. If your ball gets too much build up of silicone use paper towels to periodically clean it off. Once you are done let the silicone fully cure, even the spill over.
**Step 4: Cleaning up the Mold**
Once the silicone laid in Step 2 and 3 is fully cured, peel away all of the spill over created in Step 3. Fix any areas that need fixed, repeating step 2 through 4 until you are satisfied with the mold.
**Step 5: Taping your screw holes**
All of your screw holes, take painters tape and cover the screw heads. When you de-mold your countertop and you don't have to dig dried concrete out of a screw head you will thank me for this step.
## Achieving the Look
Now these are my cheesy descriptions but you will get the point... A.k.a. **What look are you going for?** Do you want the natural rock in the cement to show? Do you want a smooth, unblemished look? Do you have some cool stone, glass or whatever to show through the surface? And hey, What about something other than Grey?
***The Sections to Follow will collectively make up the look of your countertop. Understanding the look you are going for is important.***
### The Aggregate Look
Are you wanting to see the natural aggregate in the concrete? During the wet polishing step during finishing you are going to want to start with a heavier grit diamond polishing pad. Polishing until you get the desired look.
### The Silky Smooth Look
A smooth consistent surface with little to no blemishes... Muwah Perfect! (I'm Italian... its like making the perfect dish or desert. That comfort food that just hits the spot every time.)
This look can be achieved 2 different ways. One way is a higher guarantee of look than the other but with a higher guarantee comes more work.
**Easier but a lower guarantee:** In the wet polishing process you start at a higher grit of diamond polishing pad (around 400 grit). The idea here is you do not want to remove as little of the surface as possible so you do not expose the aggregate directly below the surface.
**Harder but a higher guarantee:** When you are mixing concrete you mix 2 different batches. One batch you mix is a mortar mix with no aggregate. Instead of mixing the entire counter at once you mix the mortar first and lay it, let it set (harden) Once it has set, then mix the rest of the concrete with aggregate and pour the rest of the countertop. This will ensure that the top surface of your countertop has no aggregate regardless of how low of a grit of diamond you start with.
### With a Splash of Color
So yeah... I don't even know where to begin. Have you ever picked out paint colors for your house? ...yeah this is kinda like that. Just like picking out paint colors, pigments for concrete are about as plentiful. All I am going to say is start [HERE](https://directcolors.com/pigments/). (If you need to calculate how much pigment you need, Direct Colors have calculators for their pigments and how to documents to use their pigments. Oh and psst they sell samples too!!!!)
### The Specialty Look
Looking for that aggregate to compliment the room or compliment the color you chose for the concrete. Or maybe you want to embed something in the surface of the concrete. Now embedding something in the surface is a level above moderate skill level but all these are possible.
Doing custom aggregate ([Crushed Glass](https://directcolors.com/crushed-glass/) or [Granite](https://directcolors.com/crushed-granite/)) means mixing your own concrete and doing a similar process to what I spelled out in "The Silky Smooth Look" - "Harder but a higher guarantee" but to minimize the amount of aggregate needed you place the aggregate in empty mold and pour mortar over the mortar. This places the aggregate at the surface so when polishing you expose the custom aggregate.
Note: *I am playing around with using spray adhesives to find the right adhesive that makes the aggregate stay in place when pouring but pops from the mold. More to come on this technique.*
## Mixing and Pouring
Your mixture is key to a good countertop pour. Just like its takes just the right cake mixture to make the perfect wedding cake... too wet and the cake will sink, too dry and well let's be honest not many people like dry cake. Just like a cake mix concrete needs the right mix of elements for it to turn out the way you want. Make sure with all mixes you account for humidity as this will change the amount of water you use in your mix.
Also, If you want to make it easy on yourself... GET A CEMENT MIXER!
### The Pre-Mix Mix
This concrete mixture is designed for an 80lb bag of pre-mix concrete. (Yield 633sqin @ 1.5in thickness, 994.5sqin @ 1in thickness, Yield 474sqin @ 2in thickness, Yield 316sqin @ 3in thickness):
* 4-liter of water @ 50% Humidity, 4.5-liter of water @ 35% Humidity
* 80-lbs bag of pre-mix concrete (I used Handi-Crete which is made by Quickcrete)
* 5-lbs Portland cement (Grey or White)
* If you have clumps in your portland cement use a flour sifter to break it up and sift it into a fine powder.
* 1-oz (weight) Plasticizer/Water Reducer
* 2-oz (weight) Chopped Glass Fibers (Optional)
### The DIY Mix
This is a custom mixture of concrete that I have used for both a mortar style mix (No Aggregate) and concrete mix on countertops. (Yield 664sqin @ 1.5in thickness, 1044sqin @ 1in thickness, Yield 497sqin @ 2in thickness, Yield 331sqin @ 3in thickness):
* 4.25-liter of water @ 50% Humidity, 4.75-liter of water @ 35% Humidity
* 20-lbs Portland Cement (Grey or White)
* If you have clumps in your portland cement use a flour sifter to break it up and sift it into a fine powder.
* 30-lbs Sand
* 40-lbs Aggregate (optional)
* 1-oz (weight) Plasticizer/Water Reducer
* 2-oz (weight) Chopped Glass Fibers (Optional)
### Mixing the Mix
\*\* **If you haven't obtained a cement mixer at this point you will have to figure out the best way to mix without a mixer. I will be talking only to the order of mixing for a cement mixer.** \*\*
1. Pour all the water and plasticizer in the cement mixer.
2. Slowly add the Cement Mix / Portland (Portland, Sand and Aggregate in that order for the DIY mix) in the cement mixer.
3. If you are adding fiberglass reinforcement, Add the Chopped Glass Fibers in the mixer.
4. Let it mix thoroughly for a period of time. Add portland if the mix is too wet. Add water if the mix is too chunky or dry.
### Pouring The Mix
Before you mix a bag, pour it, and mix another bag, pour it... **STOP!** This was a huge mistake I made when I poured the first large area countertop that required more than 1 batch of concrete.
**Step 1:** Mix all your concrete and pour into buckets until you have all the concrete your need, then pour all the buckets one after another into your mold. You will get better results and a more consistent pour. If you plan on inlaying mesh or steel reinforcement this is the time to do it.
**Step 2:** Once you have poured all your concrete spread the concrete to the areas of the molds to get a consistent thickness throughout.
**Step 3:** Turn on your table vibrator. If you have large areas of standing water you can pour dry sand and portland in these areas to soak up the water and fill the areas. This is also the time to smooth the bottom of the countertop. (Do your research on proper forms of smoothing / finishing concrete. I honestly did a little smoothing as it cured but didn't spend a ton of time and they still turned out great.)
### Spraying the Mix
This will not be addressed in this blog post but do some research it is a really cool technique for creating countertops. You are spraying the concrete into the mold to either create a consistent surface or to seal specialty aggregate at the surface of your countertop. Once you spray the surface and it sets you then fill in the rest of the mold with standard concrete.
## Curing
Patience is a virtue... The slower the cure the better. As a general rule you should not move your piece for 5-7 days. If the piece has a sink cutout, do not move it. On day 3-4 you can de-mold your countertop.
## Flipping the Top
Planning the flip is important, especially if you have a cutout of some sort. The use of boards and clamps to keep the countertop from twisting during the flip is critical. You do not want to throw away 5-7 days of work.
## Finishing
This is where you are going to achieve the look you desire but just like woodworking you can mess up a project in one over sanding or measure-once-cut-once bad cut. You are polishing a rock that could expose unexpected things. It is highly recommended to make a test piece and practice your finishing techniques. You don't want hours of pouring and days of curing to be wasted by over finishing the countertop.
### Step 1: Wet Polishing
(This is the process where you can expose the aggregate in the concrete)
#### Tools and Supplies Needed:
* Orbital Polisher with Wet/Dry Shroud, 4in to 5in Velcro Backer Pad and water pump
* Wet/Dry Diamond Polishing Pad Set (50 grit to 3000 grit)
* 5 Gallon Bucket with clean water
* Diamond Hand Polishing Pads Foam Back
This process is just like sanding or polishing anything. You start with a coarser grit (50-400 grit depending on how much aggregate you want to expose) and work your way down to a finer grit (3000). Make sure to do at least 2 passes per grit and each pass direction 90 degree from the previous pass.
### Step 2: Slurry The Exposed Surfaces
Using the concrete mixture you used for your countertops, separate the aggregate from the sand/portland. We are separating the mix so we can get the same color concrete as we did in our initial poured mixture.
In a solo cup, mix together the sand/portland with water until the cement is a thinner paste consistency. Pour on the surface of the countertop and spread with a 6-in to 8-in drywall taping knife. The goal here is to fill any small bubble holes in the surface.
Let Dry. Repeat if needed.
### Step 3: Dry Sand
Once the slurry is dry using an orbital sander with 100 grit sand paper and a shop vac, sand the surface. You are trying to sand down all the excess slurry that is not filling an air bubble hole. Do not worry, you will not hurt the surface. Make sure you wear a respirator during this process even though you have your sander hooked up to the shop vac.
### Step 4: Dry Polish
#### Tools and Supplies Needed:
* Orbital Polisher with Wet/Dry Shroud, 4in to 5in Velcro Backer Pad
* Wet/Dry Diamond Polishing Pad Set (400 grit to 3000 grit)
This process is just like "Step 1: Wet Polishing" just without the wet part. This time start with a finer grit (400 grit) and work to a finer grit (3000 grit), doing the 90 degree offset per pass. Just like in step 1 each grit gets at least 2 passes.
### Step 5: Seal
As much as you want to install the countertops and revile in the beauty you need to seal your work. There are 2 different ways to apply sealer, Foam roller or HVLP Spray gun.
**Foam Roller Application:**
This application process is going to appeal to most people because not everyone has the air supply to run a HVLP Sprayer let alone have one. By far, if you have the equipment to run a HVLP sprayer, do it! It will give you an exceptional finish.
The goal with using a foam roller is to apply thin coats of sealer. You may need to sand between coats using 400 grit sand paper. Apply at least 5 coats.
**HVLP Sprayer:**
This application process takes less coats since each layer is thicker with a sprayer than if you foam roll the sealer. Apply 2-3 coats.
### Step 6: Wax
Waxing the surface of your countertop is important as it will prolong the life of the sealer. Follow the instructions on [Expressions-LTD Concrete Countertop FDA Beeswax](https://www.expressions-ltd.com/collections/countertop-sealer/products/concrete-countertop-fda-beeswax).
## Install
## Video
Coming Soon!
# Covid-19
The call to action in 2020! The crazy roller coaster projects that I worked on in 2020. Contributing to the greater good!