Ikea Pegboard

IKEA SKÅDIS-Style Pegboard — Cut Your Own (Laser or CNC)

This is a SKÅDIS-compatible pattern you can cut on a laser or CNC. Keep reading for materials that actually behave, quick fit tips, and a handful of 3D model links so you can kit it out fast.

Why DIY instead of buying?

Make it fit you. Cabinet doors, cart sides, full stud spans—no weird gaps.
Pick your material. Birch ply for warm shop vibes, acrylic for wipe-clean, HDPE for the messy zones, aluminum/ACM when you want strong sharp look.
Finish the way you live. Spray, wipe-on, paint… or don’t.
If you already run a laser/CNC, it’s cheaper at size.

Materials & thickness (laser or CNC)

Birch ply (3–6 mm / 1⁄8–1⁄4″) – strong, light, takes screws well. Seal edges (clear or paint) so it doesn’t fuzz.
- My go-to: 5.2 mm Sandeply (actual ~0.205″). IKEA targets ~5.0 mm, and 5.2 mm hits that sweet spot of stiff + accessory-friendly. [Home Depot]
MDF (3–6 mm) – dead-flat and cheap. Seal it—MDF drinks humidity and dust.
Cast acrylic (3–6 mm) – CO₂ cuts look gorgeous; easy to wipe clean at the electronics bench.
ACM (3–4 mm) – super flat, very stiff for the weight. CNC for cutting (single-flute/O-flute, shallow DOC, lots of chip evac).
- Marking: Fiber/UV will mark the aluminum skins directly. CO₂ can mark painted skins or bare with a ceramic compound. Diode on bare alu = mostly nope.
- Mount with rails/standoffs; the PE core doesn’t love wood screws.
HDPE (6–10 mm) – tanks through wet/dirty areas. CNC only. O-flute, big chipload, keep it cool.
Aluminum sheet/plate (3–6 mm) – premium/heavy-duty. Needs a rigid router/mill with mist/flood and proper workholding.

Safety: never laser PVC/vinyl. MDF dust needs good extraction. Vent acrylic fumes. Eye/ear/PPE when you’re cutting metals.

Cutting notes

CO₂ laser

Run a test coupon. Keep slots nominal; let kerf give you the snug fit.
Acrylic near wood: multiple faster passes beats one spicy pass.

CNC router/mill

Wood/MDF: compression or upcut. Surface your spoilboard first so slots stay square.
Plastics: polished O-flute, shallow DOC, lower RPM + higher feed.
Aluminum: single-flute + mist. Add a 0.1 mm finish pass for dead-consistent slots.

Fit & tolerance tips

Printed hooks vary by printer/filament.
Too tight? Tiny chamfer/deburr on the back edge or scale the pattern +0.1–0.2 mm XY.
Too loose? Scale −0.1–0.2 mm or choose hooks with tighter tabs.
Tiling multiple boards? Keep the edge offset consistent so the staggered pattern lines up across seams.

Mounting options

French cleats if you like to move walls around (I do).
Perimeter frame stiffens big acrylic panels.
Standoffs/rails when you need cable depth behind electronics.

Print-able accessories

Printables.com

Skådis Mount Collections (lots of everyday holders).
Skådis T-Nuts/locking inserts (great for heavier stuff).
Filament spool holders, cups, tool hooks—there are tons. Search “Skådis” on Printables and you’re off.

FAQ

Round-hole pegboard accessories fit? Nope—SKÅDIS is slots on a staggered metric grid.

What thickness should I pick? Wall use: 5–6 mm ply or acrylic feels premium. Carts/doors: 3–4 mm + a frame. Heavy tools: thicker or use T-nuts/rails.

Laser or CNC? Laser = fastest for ply/acrylic with clean edges. CNC = HDPE, aluminum, ACM, and when you want countersinks/pockets.