# Ikea Pegboard

This is a **SKÅDIS-compatible** pattern you can cut on a laser or CNC. Keep reading for **materials that actually behave**, quick fit tips, and a handful of 3D model links so you can kit it out fast.

### Why DIY instead of buying?

* **Make it fit you.** Cabinet doors, cart sides, full stud spans—no weird gaps.
* **Pick your material.** Birch ply for warm shop vibes, acrylic for wipe-clean, HDPE for the messy zones, aluminum/ACM when you want strong sharp look.
* **Finish the way you live.** Spray, wipe-on, paint… or don’t.
* **If you already run a laser/CNC, it’s cheaper at size.**

### Materials & thickness (laser or CNC)

* **Birch ply (3–6 mm / 1⁄8–1⁄4″)** – strong, light, takes screws well. Seal edges (clear or paint) so it doesn’t fuzz.
  * **My go-to:** **5.2 mm Sandeply** (actual \~0.205″). IKEA targets \~**5.0 mm**, and 5.2 mm hits that sweet spot of stiff + accessory-friendly. \[[Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/SANDEPLY-5-2mm-Sandeply-Plywood-1-4-in-Category-Common-1-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-205-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-479023/203414042)]
* **MDF (3–6 mm)** – dead-flat and cheap. Seal it—MDF drinks humidity and dust.
* **Cast acrylic (3–6 mm)** – CO₂ cuts look gorgeous; easy to wipe clean at the electronics bench.
* **ACM (3–4 mm)** – super flat, very stiff for the weight. **CNC for cutting** (single-flute/O-flute, shallow DOC, lots of chip evac).
  * **Marking:** Fiber/UV will mark the aluminum skins directly. CO₂ can mark painted skins or bare with a ceramic compound. Diode on bare alu = mostly nope.
  * Mount with rails/standoffs; the PE core doesn’t love wood screws.
* **HDPE (6–10 mm)** – tanks through wet/dirty areas. **CNC only.** O-flute, big chipload, keep it cool.
* **Aluminum sheet/plate (3–6 mm)** – premium/heavy-duty. Needs a rigid router/mill with mist/flood and proper workholding.

**Safety:** never laser **PVC/vinyl**. MDF dust needs good extraction. Vent acrylic fumes. Eye/ear/PPE when you’re cutting metals.

### Cutting notes

**CO₂ laser**

* Run a **test coupon**. Keep slots nominal; let kerf give you the snug fit.
* Acrylic near wood: multiple faster passes beats one spicy pass.

**CNC router/mill**

* **Wood/MDF:** compression or upcut. Surface your spoilboard first so slots stay square.
* **Plastics:** polished **O-flute**, shallow DOC, lower RPM + higher feed.
* **Aluminum:** single-flute + mist. Add a **0.1 mm** finish pass for dead-consistent slots.

### Fit & tolerance tips

* Printed hooks vary by printer/filament.
* **Too tight?** Tiny chamfer/deburr on the back edge or scale the pattern **+0.1–0.2 mm** XY.
* **Too loose?** Scale **−0.1–0.2 mm** or choose hooks with tighter tabs.
* Tiling multiple boards? Keep the **edge offset** consistent so the staggered pattern lines up across seams.

### Mounting options

* **French cleats** if you like to move walls around (I do).
* **Perimeter frame** stiffens big acrylic panels.
* **Standoffs/rails** when you need cable depth behind electronics.

### Print-able accessories

[Printables.com](https://www.printables.com/search/models?ctx=models\&q=SKADIS)

* Skådis Mount Collections (lots of everyday holders).
* Skådis T-Nuts/locking inserts (great for heavier stuff).
* Filament spool holders, cups, tool hooks—there are tons. Search **“Skådis”** on Printables and you’re off.

### FAQ

**Round-hole pegboard accessories fit?**\
Nope—SKÅDIS is **slots** on a staggered metric grid.

**What thickness should I pick?**\
Wall use: **5–6 mm** ply or acrylic feels premium. Carts/doors: **3–4 mm** + a frame. Heavy tools: thicker or use T-nuts/rails.

**Laser or CNC?**\
Laser = fastest for ply/acrylic with clean edges.\
CNC = HDPE, aluminum, ACM, and when you want countersinks/pockets.

## Documents and Links

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LightBurn Design File
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